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So I've been using ca glue for pore filling and decided to try epoxy and I'm hating it. I did one coat I must have got it on to thick. I didn't really see runs when I put it on but I just spent 2 hrs sanding my sides because it was so unlevel and small runs everywhere . I used system three clear coat epoxy. Think I can finish pore filling with a coat of ca glue over the epoxy?

I don't know about the CA over epoxy, but did you watch the three part series on YouTube that Todd Stock did on pore fill with epoxy? The trick is that magic squeegee.


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Don't try and sand runs out if it's at all possible to use a scraper, or a razor blade held like a scraper and shave them down

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Allen R. McFarlen
Barron River Guitars & Ukuleles
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Cairns, Australia

Clear Coat is pretty thin stuff. When I am using it I squeegee it on but then use a foam brush to pick up the extra and smooth the runs.

But, you question is CA over epoxy. I have done a repair or two on the epoxy fill coat with CA. Seems to work fine. I would just make sure the Clear Coat is fully cured. I believe it says 72 hours at 77 degrees. If it is more like 65-75 degrees I would give it 5 days. They do sell an accelerator but it has to be mixed in at the beginning. That is why I usually go for there SB-112. It dries in half the time, thicker but not as water white as clear coat.

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

I guess I should add, since you can recoat with Clear Coat every 12-16 hours, I would just scrape off the runs as Allen suggested and continue with the epoxy. This time I would apply, squeegee, then do the foam brush thing removing the runs and the extra material. When it is done you might be happy with it.

Just be sure to let it fully cure before starting with the finish.

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

We've gone to System 3 Silver Tip resin and fast hardener - it gives a cured, sandable surface in 24 hours, so 3 days to finishing. Other options are West Systems 105 resin and 207 special clear hardener or MAS low viscocity hardener with fast hardener - all of these are clear, blush-free systems, as is your Clear Coat, but unlike Clear Coat, cure in 16 to 24 hours.

If you have not seen the videos mentioned earlier, they are of assistance in understanding that the epoxy is a filler, and not a base coat or finish, so building thickness by leaving the coat wet is not necessary or desirable. Although enough epoxy needs to be applied to properly wet out the wood, very aggressive removal is necessary to avoid what you are dealing with now. You may find that sanding the epoxy back to wood after scraping off the ridges of epoxy will allow you to apply your second coat using a good heavy-duty Etore or similar window squeegee, which should allow you to remove excess epoxy and produce a smooth surface. There should not be any area which appears wet or 'juicy' - a razor blade scraper should be all that is required to remove any dribbles or ridges that go unnoticed.

For others still using Z-Poxy Finishing Resin, it's important to remember to wash the epoxy with soapy water prior to sanding to remove any amine blush, which appears to be the culprit behind finish incompatibility between some body chemistry and nitro top coats.

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A constellation only takes shape when one maps the whole.
- Beth Brower

Good stuff. Thanks, Woodie!



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