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 Post subject: Build number ... hmmm 9?
PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 3:46 pm 
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Koa
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No sure what number it is????
It is Spruce over good ol’ sapelle. Simple rosette. Nothing fancy here. Just trying to get a tight build. Binding is flame maple. No purfling.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 3:52 pm 
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Lookin' good.

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These users thanked the author sdsollod for the post: SnowManSnow (Fri Oct 12, 2018 4:09 pm)
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 4:09 pm 
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I've built several out of Sapele. It makes a fine sounding guitar. Love the shape. The end graft is very nice. Bracing might be on the heavy side but who am I to say?

Looks like you are off to a great start.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 4:12 pm 
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Koa
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Btw. My binding was SUPPOSE to be a good bit thinner (top to bottom) than it is/.... then my router base slipped AGAIN. I’m not sure how that keeps happening w my colt. I thought I had fixed the stupid thing


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 4:28 pm 
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Koa
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Came close to making a perfect joint where the bindings touch on the back but alas... it’s simply very close


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 5:01 pm 
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Koa
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You’re not supposed to lose count!!



These users thanked the author Glen H for the post: SnowManSnow (Fri Oct 12, 2018 6:53 pm)
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 6:54 pm 
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Koa
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Glen H wrote:
You’re not supposed to lose count!!

Ha I know.... ummmm I’ll call it 9 then
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Maple binding installed:)
I’ll “flush” it tomorrow.



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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 6:59 pm 
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2018 7:20 am 
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This never slips. I never understood the need for anything else.

Attachment:
P1010028.JPG


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2018 8:10 am 
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SnowManSnow wrote:
Btw. My binding was SUPPOSE to be a good bit thinner (top to bottom) than it is/.... then my router base slipped AGAIN. I’m not sure how that keeps happening w my colt. I thought I had fixed the stupid thing


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There is an arrow on the base near the top that needs to point to the lock icon before you close the locking lever. I had the same thing happen to me.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2018 8:33 am 
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Hutch—

The reason I prefer concentric bearings instead of a guide finger is because, with a guide finger, getting the horizontal depth of cut to stay consistent takes a bit more work. You always have to keep the workpiece perpendicular to the guide finger, and with curved surfaces, that can take a few passes to make sure you consistently cut as deep as possible. With concentric bearings on the cutter, that is never an issue. Both can get the job done.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2018 9:34 am 
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Koa
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rob91bob wrote:
SnowManSnow wrote:
Btw. My binding was SUPPOSE to be a good bit thinner (top to bottom) than it is/.... then my router base slipped AGAIN. I’m not sure how that keeps happening w my colt. I thought I had fixed the stupid thing


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There is an arrow on the base near the top that needs to point to the lock icon before you close the locking lever. I had the same thing happen to me.

Yea. It is locked/ was. No real foul this time thankfully.
I’ve got to figure out what’s happening w that thing


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2018 9:35 am 
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banjopicks wrote:
This never slips. I never understood the need for anything else.

Attachment:
P1010028.JPG

The difference is that with a binding cutter the router follows the curvature of the sides so that your channels are the same all the way around. It floats on top as you push it through.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2018 9:06 pm 
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Koa
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banjopicks wrote:
This never slips. I never understood the need for anything else.

Attachment:
P1010028.JPG


I know you build mandolins, can you show me a picture of a F5 sitting in that? I find I need a floating router that indexes off the top or bottom because I build all sorts of arched top or recurved instruments but I would love to be able to do it with a router table.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2018 9:35 pm 
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I wish I could but I don't take pics while I'm working. All I do is rest the edge of the instrument on the tongue and try to keep the instrument level by eye and feel as I go around. It's not as difficult as it sounds.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2018 10:54 pm 
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Koa
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A few updates
Image

Image

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2018 10:54 pm 
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And the sanding block I made ha:)
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2018 7:45 pm 
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Love it all


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2018 9:27 pm 
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Lookin good Snow!

New username, same ole Pat Macaluso!


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2018 10:32 pm 
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Koa
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Pmaj7 wrote:
Lookin good Snow!

New username, same ole Pat Macaluso!

Thanks pat
At number 8 I’m noticing I’m more capable of fixing my boo boos ha:)
Definitely the best binding job so far;) no gaps!!


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These users thanked the author SnowManSnow for the post: Pmaj7 (Mon Oct 15, 2018 2:26 am)
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2018 8:14 am 
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You got me thinking about my method of holding. I may try a masonite ring just inside of the binding ledge to keep it level. Then I could get rid of the tongue part and just use the side stop. I'm not sure it's needed but I may give it a try and see if I notice a difference. This jig is so I easy to make and use. I can't imagine how these new fangled ones can be any better except be able to see the cut which doesn't seem to be an advantage to me.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2018 9:36 am 
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Sometime the bit will slip in the chuck making the cut deeper. This can happen if you seat the bit all the way into the chuck until it touches bottom. You should never do that, but stick it in til it touches, then pull it back out about 1/16", then tighten the hell out of the chuck


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2018 9:44 am 
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I heard putting an o-ring on the shaft solves the problem of putting the bit in too far.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2018 9:45 am 
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SnowManSnow wrote:
And the sanding block I made ha:)
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Now that's a nice sanding block.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2018 11:47 am 
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Koa
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banjopicks wrote:
SnowManSnow wrote:
And the sanding block I made ha:)
Image


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Now that's a nice sanding block.

I wanted to test out some tru oil finish:$)


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