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PostPosted: Sat Jul 13, 2019 5:51 pm 
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Koa
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I need to remove kerfing so I can redo the job correctly. Any advise on doing this or do I just take a chisel and start working ?


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 13, 2019 5:59 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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What kind of glue did you use and when was the original kerfing installed?


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 13, 2019 6:24 pm 
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Koa
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A few weeks ago . Fish glue


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 13, 2019 8:47 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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How does fish glue undo?

I need to do that from time to time, I use a clothes iron from the outside and try to get the pallet knife in there, mindful not to attempt to much twisting of the knife to remove it. In other words, don't try to use the knife as a lever, you can blow your sides if not careful..



These users thanked the author meddlingfool for the post: James Orr (Sat Jul 13, 2019 11:20 pm)
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 14, 2019 3:43 am 
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I thought some moisture with the heart would be efficacious.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 14, 2019 10:29 am 
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"I thought some moisture with the heart would be efficacious."

Really it's nothing to cry your heart out over! pizza


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 14, 2019 11:39 am 
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gaah I think I meant heat laughing6-hehe

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 14, 2019 12:07 pm 
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I like the phrase “water with the heart” better. Agua con corazon.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 14, 2019 4:37 pm 
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Koa
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I got most of it off w a sharp brace carving chisel ... sandpaper will handle the rest.

Ed, moisture w fish glue


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2019 1:41 pm 
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Koa
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When I finish the rekerf.... do I simply plane it down flush to the sides or do I need to go back to the radius dishes?
B


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2019 2:51 pm 
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SnowManSnow wrote:
When I finish the rekerf.... do I simply plane it down flush to the sides or do I need to go back to the radius dishes?
B


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I’d chalk the kerf or make witness lines with a pencil, then re-sand. It shouldn’t take too long. You’ll want the new material to be properly radiused. :)


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2019 5:43 pm 
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Back to the dishpit with ya!


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 21, 2019 1:47 pm 
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Yes, Ed is so right, back to the dishpit ya be.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 21, 2019 4:24 pm 
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So I read and re-read the last two post. I couldn’t understand why you guys were being so harsh and vulgar. It turns out I may have been transposing the sh/p. :)


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2019 5:30 am 
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rlrhett wrote:
So I read and re-read the last two post. I couldn’t understand why you guys were being so harsh and vulgar. It turns out I may have been transposing the sh/p. :)


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laughing6-hehe Don't think harsh and vulgar at all! Think radius dish slave pit gaah again!

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2019 5:19 pm 
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Koa
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Colin North wrote:
rlrhett wrote:
So I read and re-read the last two post. I couldn’t understand why you guys were being so harsh and vulgar. It turns out I may have been transposing the sh/p. :)


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laughing6-hehe Don't think harsh and vulgar at all! Think radius dish slave pit gaah again!

Arrrrrgg! To the dishpit!!!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2019 10:12 pm 
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So relining the body with kerfed lining...OK. it needs to go in slightly proud (1/32" is perfect) and re-radiused using the same approach taken the first time.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2019 7:50 am 
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Koa
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Woodie G wrote:
So relining the body with kerfed lining...OK. it needs to go in slightly proud (1/32" is perfect) and re-radiused using the same approach taken the first time.

I DID get it re-dished :) it was, though a challenge as the back is glued on already... I was going to take a chance on the thinned lining, but decided to rekerf it instead of wondering if the top would fly off...

So what I had to do was lay the rim w the mold down upside down on the dish and do my best to keep even pressure as I rotated it around... the mold was heavy enough to add weight so It didn’t take forever and I did get the radius reapplied as well as taken out of the upper bout:)

Image

Ready for the ol top:)


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2019 9:53 am 
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That's better!

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2019 9:57 am 
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That's how I do all mine. Move the frame, not the dish. But I had my dish custom made to about 2"...

Not sure how I feel about that gap under the neck block...



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PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2019 10:04 am 
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Koa
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meddlingfool wrote:
That's how I do all mine. Move the frame, not the dish. But I had my dish custom made to about 2"...

Not sure how I feel about that gap under the neck block...

Well the gap only proceeds up to the kerfing. There is a strip around the top that is the same width as the rest of the kerfing. It’s the same kind of thing you can see on the tail block at the bottom where the top will go. I don’t see a lot of tension there, definitely not more than on the top at the tail block, so I figured why not free that are up to move.

Now, all that said, I’m just playing compared to
the things you do and if there’s a reason NOT to do that I’d happily listen to it and make appropriate adjustments next time.
Thanks Ed


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2019 10:12 am 
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doncaparker wrote:
I like the phrase “water with the heart” better. Agua con corazon.


es bein mi amigo [:Y:]

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2019 11:01 am 
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Part of the reason guitars need neck resets is the forward rotation of the neck block, accompanied by the back flattening in that area. I’m not sure how much having the bottom of the block glued prevents this, but that’s why Spanish heels and c block style construction exists.

I’ve never done any deliberate experiments, but it’s my understanding that a gap like that is generally considered not a good idea by consensus.

If you look at chladni patterns of backs, there’s not a lot going on there anyway.

I’m sure with some digging you can find previous threads on it...



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PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2019 11:03 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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That being said, I do chamfer the tail block to lining width on the top...


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2019 12:04 pm 
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Koa
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meddlingfool wrote:
Part of the reason guitars need neck resets is the forward rotation of the neck block, accompanied by the back flattening in that area. I’m not sure how much having the bottom of the block glued prevents this, but that’s why Spanish heels and c block style construction exists.

I’ve never done any deliberate experiments, but it’s my understanding that a gap like that is generally considered not a good idea by consensus.

If you look at chladni patterns of backs, there’s not a lot going on there anyway.

I’m sure with some digging you can find previous threads on it...

Thanks Ed


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