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 Post subject: Wipe on poly
PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 9:26 am 
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Koa
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First name: Brad
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Hello,

I'm looking to use a wipe on poly for a tenor uke build. I've never done anything that isn't sprayed other than FP. I have some questions. I started with the SM wipe on poly but the reviews seem to indicate issues getting a finish with no bubbles. Reading about general woodworkers application of wipe on poly there is a lot of opinions. :)

For those with some experience on this topic...

1) Is a pore fill recommended first? If so, what type?
2) Is there a recommended vendor or just use the SM colortone offering (seems expensive compared to minwax, etc... is it really different?)
3) Recommended applicator? Seems that foam brushing caused some issues with the colortone.
4) Recommended sanding grit between coats?

Thanks as always. Hey, there should be a separate forum for finishing topics. :)

Brad

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 Post subject: Re: Wipe on poly
PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 11:26 am 
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I've used Minwax Whipe on Poly for years on furniture, window trim, etc. Only used the Satin version. Love the stuff! 220 grit between coats is fine. Just a light scuff. I've never tried it on an instrument, though. Pore filling is personal choice. If you like to see pores, don't worry about it. Otherwise, any of the standard pore filling techniques is fine. I just use a piece of old t-shirt, or a couple of gun cleaning patches to apply. 3 to 4 coats is all I've ever needed.

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 Post subject: Re: Wipe on poly
PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 12:24 pm 
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Ditto on using Minwax and a cloth to apply it. Works fine especially for a small project. I just pour a few drops on the cloth and spread it around. One final pass with the grain to smooth everything out. Similar idea to applying FP without all the swirly swirly motion. 3 or 4 coats is plenty.

(who would use a foam brush for 'wipe-on' poly??)


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 Post subject: Wipe on poly
PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 1:09 pm 
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Quine wrote:
(who would use a foam brush for 'wipe-on' poly??)


Thanks.

I thought the same. :) I was confused why it was recommended by SM.


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 Post subject: Re: Wipe on poly
PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2019 11:23 am 
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Quick follow up:

Recommended way to mask the bridge? With FP I would mask but there was always build up around the edge of the tape. I’m thinking wiping this on the same will happen.

Should be just as easy to not mask and scrape this stuff back with a blade I suppose?


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 Post subject: Re: Wipe on poly
PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2019 2:10 pm 
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i'm just wrapping up an instrument with a wipe on poly finish. minwax satin. the client wanted wipe on poly and that's what she'll get -no pore fil. super thin, 6 coats on the body and neck, 3 on the top.

i apply all of my finishes with a muneca (square patch of old t-shirt, 3 or 4 cotton balls and a baggie tie) sanding between coats is via. scotch brite 7448 all the way up to final. don't use steel wool on waterbased finishes.



These users thanked the author arie for the post: bcombs510 (Thu Aug 22, 2019 2:17 pm)
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 Post subject: Re: Wipe on poly
PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2019 2:20 pm 
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arie wrote:
i'm just wrapping up an instrument with a wipe on poly finish. minwax satin. the client wanted wipe on poly and that's what she'll get -no pore fil. super thin, 6 coats on the body and neck, 3 on the top.

i apply all of my finishes with a muneca (square patch of old t-shirt, 3 or 4 cotton balls and a baggie tie) sanding between coats is via. scotch brite 7448 all the way up to final. don't use steel wool on waterbased finishes.


That's a much finer between coat sanding than 220! I have to admit I was trying with 220 and the next coat wasn't removing the previous scratches. Perhaps I'll have to sand back a bit and go finer between coats?

Thanks for the reminder about the muneca. If nothing it will be easier to hold than the patches of cotton I am using now.

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 Post subject: Re: Wipe on poly
PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2019 2:31 pm 
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yeah, not a lot of build when you use an applicator pad and i find that 220 makes it too easy to cut down to raw wood especially on the edges. there's little lubrication in the stuff to float on so the coats are super thin. now if it were gorped on with a brush, you'd have some build to it but it would also be a bit milky looking as well.

i find wipe-on finishes with the bridge on to be a pita. thusly, i'll do the scrap and clean tactic. tuner slots on a slot head headstock are also picky as well.



These users thanked the author arie for the post: bcombs510 (Thu Aug 22, 2019 6:03 pm)
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 Post subject: Re: Wipe on poly
PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2019 7:38 pm 
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arie wrote:
i'm just wrapping up an instrument with a wipe on poly finish. minwax satin. the client wanted wipe on poly and that's what she'll get -no pore fil. super thin, 6 coats on the body and neck, 3 on the top.

i apply all of my finishes with a muneca (square patch of old t-shirt, 3 or 4 cotton balls and a baggie tie) sanding between coats is via. scotch brite 7448 all the way up to final. don't use steel wool on waterbased finishes.


So, you used Minwax Water Base Wipe on Poly in Clear Satin?

What are the pros and cons on oil based vs. water based wipe on poly? I have used the oil based, but not the water based.


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 Post subject: Re: Wipe on poly
PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2019 7:59 am 
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Cool thread, lets see some wipe on poly, oil and water guitars!

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"Alan Carruth, IMO the 12-fret 000 or 14 fret OM size (15" wide lower bout) is god's size for the steel string guitar, especially for fingerstyle. I would also try to get away from scalloped bracing and lean toward 'straight' or 'tapered' bracing. Scalloped emphasizes bass and 'punch', where straight bracing, and especially 'tapered' (sometimes called 'parabolic') leans more toward treble and sustain."


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 Post subject: Re: Wipe on poly
PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2019 9:58 am 
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James Burkett wrote:
arie wrote:
i'm just wrapping up an instrument with a wipe on poly finish. minwax satin. the client wanted wipe on poly and that's what she'll get -no pore fil. super thin, 6 coats on the body and neck, 3 on the top.

i apply all of my finishes with a muneca (square patch of old t-shirt, 3 or 4 cotton balls and a baggie tie) sanding between coats is via. scotch brite 7448 all the way up to final. don't use steel wool on waterbased finishes.


So, you used Minwax Water Base Wipe on Poly in Clear Satin?

What are the pros and cons on oil based vs. water based wipe on poly? I have used the oil based, but not the water based.


couldn't say about pros & cons of the two finishes -sorry. never used the oil version. first thing that comes to mind is that i suspect that the waterbased version is a whole lot easier to clean up and probably smells less. personally, i don't like wop for instruments, nor poly in general -i prefer oil varnish, but it's ok for furniture and it's low toxicity is a plus imo.


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 Post subject: Re: Wipe on poly
PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2019 8:59 pm 
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I have all the coats on. Honestly, it looks pretty good. I did more coats but thinner.

How long should I let it sit before level and buffing? I read anywhere from 24 hours to two weeks online. Usually that means a week. :D

The only regret so far is I should have filled the pores, but it looked pretty good.


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 Post subject: Re: Wipe on poly
PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2019 9:00 pm 
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Image


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 Post subject: Re: Wipe on poly
PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2019 9:15 pm 
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Looks great! Satin? If so, then no buffing. If gloss, I'd give it at least a week, no matter what the instructions say.

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 Post subject: Re: Wipe on poly
PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2019 9:25 pm 
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Thanks. Ok, I will wait a week.

I plan to level and buff it up. It’s the gloss formula from SM.


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 Post subject: Re: Wipe on poly
PostPosted: Thu Aug 29, 2019 5:43 pm 
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A question - I noticed a gap in the rosette that I hadn’t seen until now. Like I mentioned above I wish I had pore filled before using the poly. I spotted this gap and thought about just filling and leveling with CA. That got me thinking about going ahead and pore filling the entire rosette. Shouldn’t be a problem, right? So a normal CA porefill in that area and then hit it with a few coats of poly?

Image

The gap is on the inside purfling ring in the center of the pic.


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 Post subject: Re: Wipe on poly
PostPosted: Thu Aug 29, 2019 11:35 pm 
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yeah, CA, scrape with razor blade, finish rosette area and possibly entire soundboard depending on how well it blends.......my $0.02......



These users thanked the author powdrell for the post: bcombs510 (Fri Aug 30, 2019 6:00 am)
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 Post subject: Re: Wipe on poly
PostPosted: Fri Aug 30, 2019 6:30 am 
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I would use Gluboost Fill N finish thin formula. It is made for this kind of task.

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 Post subject: Re: Wipe on poly
PostPosted: Fri Aug 30, 2019 9:42 am 
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Me too, just got some more.

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These users thanked the author Colin North for the post: bcombs510 (Fri Aug 30, 2019 10:14 am)
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 Post subject: Wipe on poly
PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2019 9:43 am 
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The CA worked well but as I was leveling it back I went through in some spots.

Would you recommend a light coat of CA like I do with Z-poxy to balance out the color or take it all back to wood?

If I take the rosette back to wood I should take the top back too? Any concerns with witness lines? I was thinking just take the rosette back to wood with 220 and then more coats of poly over the whole thing. I want to avoid taking the whole top back to wood, as long as it won’t cause problems down the road.

Appreciate the help!!


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