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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 12:02 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Sat Feb 12, 2005 6:20 am
Posts: 1437
First name: Bob
Last Name: Johnson
City: Denver
State: CO.
Zip/Postal Code: 80224
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I want 1 13/16' NUTS for LP, Tele and accoustics. Mu quetions are, please,
1.Electrics: is the fretboard and neck widened at 12th or 8th fret also. Are the holes for the strings also widened- if so, how much-or is the adjistment made at bridges?
2. Same questions for accoustics and how far apart are the holes in the bridge>
Thanks guys and ladies,


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 4:49 am 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo
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Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2007 2:29 pm
Posts: 156
Location: Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
Bob, have you played a guitar with a 1 13/16" wide nut? It makes for a
pretty wide neck as far as steel strings and electrics go. I made one for a
friend that insisted he wanted one that wide and now he's asking me if I can
narrow it down a bit. Anyway, if your still interested in doing it the spacing
at the 12th fret is 2 3/16" and the pin hole spacing is 2 1/4". Hope that
helps.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 8:44 am 
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Contributing Member
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Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 7:51 am
Posts: 3786
Location: Canada
my 2 cents ...

1 - if you are using a stock LP or Tele bridge, then the regular fretboard width at the 21st/22nd fret is fine with a 1 13/16 nut. Otherwise no, see below ...

2 - well, it depends.. with an acoustic bridge, that you make, the spacing is whatever you want .. so if you widen it at the pins, then yes , you will need to widen the fretbaord end .. the simple answer is to draw it out and measure - string spacing at the nut and bridge and whatever overhang you want for the fretboard, likely .1 to .125 per side. If you have it, see Cumpiano.

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 1:54 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian
Old Growth Brazilian

Joined: Tue Dec 28, 2004 1:56 am
Posts: 10707
Location: United States
Keep in mind that you need to set the sting spacing at pins or saddle and center of "E" strings to edge of neck (accounting for approx an 1/8" from the outside of the string to the edge of the neck) before you design your neck. Because a line drawn between these two points sets the taper angle needed on the neck. There is nothing worse than finding you have too little or way too much fretboard at the higher frets.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 11:46 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Sat Feb 12, 2005 6:20 am
Posts: 1437
First name: Bob
Last Name: Johnson
City: Denver
State: CO.
Zip/Postal Code: 80224
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Thanks all.
It's for, right now,fthe L-00. The player has been playing a classical. Thought, perhaps a good compromise?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 12:29 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Tue Nov 29, 2005 11:44 am
Posts: 2186
Location: Newark, DE
First name: Jim
Last Name: Kirby
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
For the L-OO, probably OK. I'd really think twice about doing this on an electric, though. My second electric was a Tele that I built for myself, and I built it to have exactly the same fretboard spacing and scale as my Larrivee L-09, with the idea that I wouldn't notice as I switched back and forth. In the end, all I got was an electric guitar with too wide a neck

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