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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 7:09 am 
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Joined: Thu Mar 05, 2009 11:12 am
Posts: 141
First name: robin
Last Name: courtenay
City: andover
State: hants
Country: uk
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
This is the first time i've used this jig, so i thought i'd post this attempt at a tut as i couldn't find any on the web when i was thinking about buying it. I'm using a dummy deck and body as a trial run as advised in the manual and will be cutting a dovetail joint. I'll have to do this in two or three parts due to the 8 attachment limit.
This first picture is the edge vice which clamps to the guitar body and the alignment template which locates on two pins on the other side of the vice, the two black thumb screws at the top of the vice are adjustable so as to allow you to square up the alignment template with the guitar body.

These are the dummy neck and body

The vice with the alignment template is clamped to the body and lined up with the centre line and top of the body.

When all is squared up remove the alignment template and replace with the dovetail template, it is now ready for routing.

Now we need to set the dial indicator bar to the correct height so that the tip of the dial indicator lines up with the proposed saddle position on the body. Place the edge vice and body onto the jig. The edge vice locates on two pins on the jig, undo the wing nut that clamps the bar and set at the saddle height and tighten the wing nut.

The neck clamps to the neck plate and is located on two pins which fit into the truss rod slot, we must zero the dial indicator with the neck plate so that we can add the desired measurement above the saddle position when we adjust the neck angle later. To zero the dial indicator we use a straight edge with two holes for the truss rod pins and a line drawn through the centre this is clamped to he neck plate.

We must make sure that tip of the dial indicator lines up with the centre line drawn on the straight edge (in the manual it says undo the wing nut and move the bar side to side to align with centre line,i could find no way of doing this as the bar always clamped in the same place, but as luck would have it was on the line anyway).

Now we zero the dial to do this we loosen the screw that hold it and move it in or out until the the small dial needle is on one of the major numbers ,in this case it is on 0 but it could be any number,then tighten the screw. Next we rotate the outside ring until the large needle reads zero, the dial indicator is now set to the same plane as the neck plate.
That's it for now, hope everything's clear, be back with part 2 shortly,all the best Roby.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 2:15 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 18, 2012 8:35 pm
Posts: 2454
Location: Austin, Texas
First name: Dan
Last Name: Smith
City: Round Rock
State: TX
Zip/Postal Code: 78681
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
That's a complicated tool but looks to be precise.
I would flip the alignment window so the scratched line is against the wood to minimize parallax error.
Thanks for sharing!


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