Official Luthiers Forum!

I am looking in to eventually making myself a classical guitar. I have never made a slotted headstock, though I think I understand the process. I would like to see your templates/jigs you use to cut the slots and drill the tuner holes. And if anyone knows of a cheaper alternative to the stewmac version of the drilling jig (http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tuners/Tuner_installation_tools/Tuning_Machine_Drill_Jig_for_Slotted_Pegheads.html?actn=100101&xst=3&xsr=12203), that would be helpful as well.

I think I remember how Sergei slots his headstocks, so I will try to make a fixture like he has. Sorry no pictures. But if you have any ideas of a good way to do this (I will be using a plunge router) I would appreciate your input. Thanks

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ELEVATE || Next Level Lutherie
http://elevatelutherie.com
&
http://ensorguitars.com

Not cheaper than the Stewmac or LMI jigs by any means, but check out the headstock jig @ http://www.luthiertool.com/classical.html . One setup for drilling the tuner holes and for routing the slots. I probably should have tried it by hand before I bought this jig, but it is really nice and I don't regret buying it. It gets the tuner holes dead-on if you use 3-on-a-plate tuners. I got the combo set for classical and steel string style slots.

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Jonathan Kendall, Siloam Springs AR

Ditto on the Jonathan's recommendation. It's the BEST (and only) jig I have ever bought.

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

Fun, huh? I built my first jig and quickly learned why the jigs you can buy are single sided. Fortunately, I practiced on scrap befor using on the peghead. Single sided, good. Flip over and use on other side.

There is a very useful file you will need for sculpting the end of the slots where the strings exit. Dangit! I cannot remember the name of it, but if Todd chimes in, he can tell you. Strongly reccomend this!!

Mike

Forstner bit, and a low fence to keep even with edge of headstock. Clean out with files and sanding sticks. Very simple. Very cheap.

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Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

Chris-
You've taken Sergei's course (?) so you know his system.
I found that it worked well recently when I dug out my notebook and made up a jig to do a classical headstock.
I don't think you need a jig to drill the side tuner roller holes, if you are careful with your layout.
Be sure to drill the tuner holes before slotting, as Sergei taught.. the pic shows the jig in place for trimming the outside of the headstock. The slotting was done later. I cleaned out most of the slots with a couple of forstener holes and the jigsaw, then a pattern bit (not plunged) to follow the template.

BTW, I do know how to tie on the strings better than this! I was in a hurry to string up!

Cheers
John

I realize the template pic is not very clear at all...
The plywood template is screwed to the rough headstock with three FH screws - two short screws into the area that will be the 'string ramp' and the third in the excess waste area at the very top of the headstock.
There are a couple of larger holes on the centerline for aligning the jig with the centreline of the headstock and the nut area.
Of course, to make the template, I made a template....it goes on and on!

I generally do the 'decorative bit' at the end of the headstock without a template, or use a separate template for that.

Cheers
John

I too use the luthiertool jig....Not cheap but fantastically made and it makes slotted headstocks a breeze

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Andy Z.
http://www.lazydogguitars.com

You talking about that aluminum thingy? I want one. I really want one!!

Mike

While on the subject: I am aswell interested in getting one of those aluminum thingys from luthiertool.com, but as a not-native speaker of the english language I am confused by the options and different versions they offer.
I am interested only in making steel string guitars with slotted headstocks. What do I need? The "Classical slot head fixture standard" together with a "Standard template set (for steel string)"? Would I need the "Classical drill bushing set" at all?
Me so confued.

I'd suggest dropping an email to them- surely they won't make you buy something you don't need?

chris@luthiertool.com

Be sure you have the correct router adapter as well. (for example, the Bosch routers need an adapter plate to use the standard round bushings.)

Cheers
John

For drilling the roller holes, the Gilbert drilling block at $35 is good value
http://www.specialtytuners.com/ look under tooling.

Christoph, for steel string slot head only, you would need this model from Chris at $249.

Coincidentally, I just took delivery of a box of goodies from Chris yesterday, including the combo version of the slot head jig.

Cheers,
Dave F.

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Cambrian Guitars

"There goes Mister Tic-Tac out the back with some bric-brac from the knick-knack rack"

John, Dave,
Thanks a bunch.

yep

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Andy Z.
http://www.lazydogguitars.com

Like Waddy I use a forester bit and a fence on my drill press to rough out the holes and then finish with files and sandpaper. I do use this Stew Mac jig to drill the tuner holes.
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for:_Tuner_installation/Tuner_Drill_Jigs.html?tab=Pictures#details

Drilling the tuner holes first eliminates blowout in the slots.

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I didn't mean to say it, but I meant what I said.
http://www.brackettinstruments.com/

Here's mine,
I made these templates well before anything was available commercially and had access to a milling machine at the time.
This one is fastened with screws in the location of the future slots

Stew Mac drilling jig:

Template is fastened at the waste corners of the peghead and neck center line
with short wood screws

I'm sort of envious on you guys. I just scribe mine with a marking gauge then carve with chisels and finish with rasps and files. It's a lot of work and I guess I just like to complicate my life
For the barrel holes I use the LMI guide with steel bushings.

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Build log

I do the same and it's a lot of fun doing it that way. I think I may have the same LMI tool as well, I got it like 15 years ago and still works like a charm. It's just a simple machined AL block with bushings.