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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 1:48 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Has anyone else tried upgrading their bending iron as per Howard Klepper's tutorial? I got the replacement parts and installed them, but now every time I try to plug it in, it shorts out the power strip. I can't figure out WHAT's going on (!?). I made notes when I took it apart, and I'm almost certain that I'm re-connecting everything correctly. Could it be that the controller won't handle a 400 watt heating cartridge?

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 2:36 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I/m guessing that the controller (resistor) switch controls the amt of amperage.It should have a rating stamped somewhere on it?? .I measured the top heat range on mine ,it topped out between 350-375 deg F ,it/s abt 22 yrs old and not used much.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 7:22 pm 
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Where does one find Howard's tutorial..............???

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 7:39 pm 
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I too am interested in the tutorial - although my iron is working fine as it is now - but I am curoius what you can do to make it better. The replacement heating elements are commonly available as well.
Is there a tut on drilling a hole, tapping it and adding a smaller diameter pipe to the end ? I have considered do this to mine - for smaller instruments, mandos and violins.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 7:47 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Here is Howard's post. I don't know how to post the link (sorry!), but the title is 'Hotrodded my Ibex bending iron'.

Howard Klepper wrote:
I mentioned in a thread about these a month ago that I wanted to try a hotter cartridge. I had to run my iron on High and wait about 15 minutes to get it hot enough for a tight bend, and even then, it didn't seem to have enough heat.

The stock heat cartridge is 200W. I replaced it with a 400W. I also replaced the thermostat switch. And since the block of wood (poplar, I think) was very charred after years of use, I replaced that, too, with a block I cut from a walnut stump. The white heat shield stuff fell apart, so I replaced it with 5/8" sheetrock (with most of the paper peeled off). The cartridge was not a tight fit, despite being the same dimensions as the old one (which wasn't tight when I tried inserting it again, either); I wrapped aluminum foil around it a couple of times to get it snug. I bored the walnut block with Forstner and sawtooth bits.

Well, I just did a tight cutaway in pernambuco. It is not that hard a wood to bend, but it was still like night and day compared to the old iron. It was hot in about 4 minutes. I had to turn it down from High because it was scorching too easily; ended up keeping it on about 6, then down to about 5-1/2. There was much more heat available; the wood easily turned plastic when previous bends of the same wood felt like they had to be leaned on for a while, and then were prone to fail from being forced too much. I suspect that the old switch might have worked about the same; I think that in the time the switch is on, much more heat is getting into the iron, so even if it cycles at about the same temperature at the switch, the iron is getting hotter. Also, the switch may be a bit better insulated from the iron in my new version. It did not cycle so rapidly as the old one did. After about 10 minutes of bending I had bumped the switch down a couple of notches.

I did get some scorching. This is a hot rod, right? You need to be careful with all that heat available and keep the work moving, and spritz as needed with water. This may be why the manufacturer chose the 200W; the new iron is working closer to the edge of burning the wood. But that's what I wanted, and I didn't get any scorches that won't sand off. I'm very happy with the change.

For those who are interested, the cartridge is Grainger part # 4njj3. The switch is Grainger # 6kxf5.

The usual disclaimers about working with electrical parts and things that get hot. Be careful.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 12:51 pm 
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Koa
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Well...400W is only around 3.5amps at 120V so it should be OK for most power strips unless you have something else running.
I would guess you have a short in your heating element or in the controller....or its a ground fault problem where some current is leaking. If you don't have an ohm meter, try plugging it into a regular wall outlet and see if it trips the breaker. If not...try a GFI protected outlet and see if it pops at the outlet (like a bathroom outlet)


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 2:15 pm 
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Koa
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I upgraded mine per Howard's instructions without incident. It now works very well indeed and does not trip out any power strips. I agree with the other fellows - look for a short somewhere, but be VERY careful!

Dave F.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 7:19 pm 
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I also upgraded my iron with these parts- although as I remember it
the idea came from a post by a different member. But wherever it
came from, it worked perfectly. The iron gets hotter much faster. So
you've got a problem in the wiring. Try the suggestions given to try
and isolate the problem.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 9:25 am 
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I got the parts in from Grainger yesterday and will be upgrading mine soon. I like bending on the iron and have not used my Fox-type bender in quite some time. I'm looking forward to it getting hotter. The way I use it now is to just crank it up to max and go.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 5:19 pm 
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I did the upgrade on mine - BIG improvement. [:Y:] No more waiting 20 minutes for the thing to heat up.

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