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I'm building a tenor uke frome the stew mac kit and it seems to have a slight radius with the outside curving up. I've fretted it twice and it still doesn't look right . I tried fretting it using a drill press and a steal block and it didn't seem to work much better. The slots seem to be getting to big making the frets loose.

Thanks

GRD:
This may not sound very smart but what is your question?

Bob

Basically if it should have that kind of radius and if I should glue in the frets or not

If the fretboard does not have a specific radius (high in the middle and symetricly lower on the edges), I would sand it flat.
Is the fretboard glued in place at present? If so, I would spray-glue some 120 grit (80 grit seems too coarse) to a "flat" 1X2X8 piece of wood and sand it flat. Then I would refret, painting the fret-tang with titebond.
Others may have a better answer.

good luck

Bob

most ukes i've run across have a flat board. any side to side crvatue3 whould be visible to the naked eye. if you don't trust yor eyes use a straight edge. any crvature should be high in the middle qand lower toward the edge.

but even with a flat board, the frets need to be rediused to provide the doen pressure toard the edge to help prevent the end rising.

23hat kind of bloxk are you using with the drill press? you may be beyyer of with a hammer to tqp them in so you can wee what is going on.

Wow, no offense, as I thought I didn't understand the question, BUT, I sure didn't understand that answer....

It sounds like you're describing a cupped fingerboard.
How long have you had it? Has it acclimated to your conditions? Big difference in climate conditions from Ohio to Wyoming.

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Always have plenty of sandpaper; it's rough out there!

sorry to confuse you nick; my decrepit digital keyboard actuators were malfunctioning a bit more than usual and herself had announced that dinner was served. so i, valuing my gourmandism more highly than your tender orthographic sensibilities despatched that missive without the benefit of proofreading. my bad!

The fingerboard should be flat. If its low in the middle and higher on the edges I would call Stew Mac about it. They're pretty good about fixing problems with their products.

Heck, I understood everything Michael said, but I thought he was Scottish!

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

I was using a steal block about an in wide I ordered some more fretwire I think if I sand it flat it would fix it I've had it since November I kept it in our garage for a while at I didn't realize until the sound board started cracking now its in our house at about 40% humidity Thanks for the help

the block would need a groove for the fret to ride in to get and even pressure on the fret, a la ste mac's fretting cauls. a flat block will give no control over the pressing of the fret. also it would have to be narrow enough to press only one fret at a time.

flatten your board, radius your frets, and tap them in with a hammer, again one small enough to hit just one fret at a time.

Use a soft-faced hammer so as not to gouge the brass of the fret-wire.
Putting a slight radius in the fret-wire is a good idea.
Putting some water in the fret slots will expand any/some crushed wood fiber in the slot but give it several days to dry before fretting.

Just my thoughts.

Bob