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Hi.. I have a 70cm diameter Mango tree on my property I am cutting down, its a hugh tree. and the main log before branches sticking out is about 4.5 -5 m long.. I would say Bottom of tree is 70cm diameter and top of that 4.5m is about 55cm

I need some qualified suggestions how to cut this up. I was thinking to cut 90 cm pieces so i can get both backs and sides, I need some good advice, never cut a Tree my self for guitar wood before. Is the best for this size to cut it Quarter sawn ? how to think when i cut the pieces if the 4.5m long trunk ? 90 cm all of them ? or do i cut a few of them for the back say 55cm and the others for sides ? or All say 90 cm ?

So.. 1. Quartersawn ? 2, How to divide the pieces ?

will use chainsaw for the main quarter cuts, is quarter best to do for this ? Its Mango ! , then take them to bandsaw for then cutting it up for guitar backs and sides.

Lars.

Is the tree alive or dead right now?

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

Following with great interest…

Tree is alive.

I'm sure you realize it will be dry for quite awhile before cutting it into actual guitar parts.

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

I saw an alaskan lumber company making guitartops, they cut from the full log, sliced it up quarter, then made tops directly, then stacked it and let it dry after stacked under weight.. Is this not possible also ?

Sure, but I expect (depending on how the wood is cut) to lose a lot to warpage, cracking, etc.

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

Hello Lars

Here is what I would do if initial cutting into billets is with a chain saw. I would shoot for quarter sawn billets. Crude quick sketch of the end of the log.

I would cut the log into 120 cm lengths which is long enough for side billets and/or two back billets per log. That leaves plenty for end checking or other defects that will show up. I would make the first two cuts to separate the log into 3 pieces along the yellow filled area. I'd make that center yellow cut ~ 10 cm thick. So now you have one nice wide billet and 2 "half" logs. Cut the center square out 10X10 for a fence post, it is unstable wood. Leaving you two nice quartersawn billets. The billets will shrink probably around 15%+- from the rough cut size as they dry. Cutting and drying hardwood is much different than spruce.

Next, I'd cut the "half" logs to separate the green sections making two more nice billets 10 cm thick.

All those billets could be great for back sets.

You now have 4 quarter logs that can be cleaned up by sawing off the gray corners leaving 4 quartersawn billets (blue) that won't be as wide as the first 4 but should be more than adequate for sides.

All the gray sections will be mostly waste.

You'll have to make some adjustments on the smaller end of the log but you should get the get the idea.

Hard wood rule of thumb for air drying is a year for each 2.5cm in thickness. But the billets will dry and time passes quickly. Stack them with some stickers to allow air flow between. Painting the ends with latex paint will help prevent some end checking. Cover the pile with some tin or something to keep the rain off or dry under a roof if you have space. After 2 years you could resaw the slabs into 5 cm thickness to speed up the drying a bit.

I'm not a sawyer but have saved some nice slabs from wood destined for firewood. You never know what you will find in a log from great figure to junk. If the tree grew where people have been around, nails or screws or old fence can be grown into the tree up to about man height so be prepared to sharpen cutting tools.

Good luck and have fun!

Brian

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Brian R, Wood Mechanic
N8ZED

Thanks a million. for the good advice Brian !

I will try to do this method.. What i am most concerned about is making more than 2 cuts with the chainsaw. Not a professional chainsaw cutter. so not sure i can make straight cuts to get 10 cm . what i was thinking first was to just make a + cut so i have 4 pieces then take those to the local standing bandsaw. they have really large ones here with 10cm wide blades. I am swedish but got married to an indonesian and moved away from the cold to here (where i now find it way to warm instead haha. )

SO i have to ponder on what will be the best option. I do like your idea better though just hoping i will be able to make straight cuts so its even 10 cm both up and down after i did it. Using a 24" chainsaw blade 4hp Husqvarna. SO i hope it will be good.

I would not do an X cut. It will cut right through your best wood.

Once you have the first 2 cuts I describe the hard part will be over.

You can nail something like a 2"x4" piece of lumber down the center of the log and use either side as a guide.

Free handing with a chain saw will make for some waste but it can be done. You will lose some wood but you have a lot of wood in that log. Start with the smaller diameter log sections for practice.

Look on the internet for how to sharpen a chain for rip cuts, it will make your life easier.

Might there be a small local saw mill or even someone with a mobile saw mill that could help you out.

Brian

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Brian R, Wood Mechanic
N8ZED

I would suggest only using the chainsaw for the crosscuts, then using a sledge and wedges for the splitting action.

We used to process a lot of spruce and it was always a hectic process. The rounds would be delivered on a giant flatbed, then the crew dropped normal operations and commenced immediately to blocking the rounds into billets, then resawing the billets into tops that would be immediately stickered and palletized, then banded very tightly, then put under tarps with huge fans blowing. It was amazing how fast it could go from log to guitar.

That’s with spruce though, so I’m not sure how long hardwood has to dry. I’ve often wondered what would happen if the initial processing was closer to end use dimensions. Why wait two and a half years to dry out a two and a half inch board when the goal is a much thinner initial dimension?

Would love to hear from people who know more about this.

That was at Larivee? Never knew they processed their own wood.

What are you thinking cutting down a big old tree if it's too hot where you live? And especially one that makes free food. Big trees are the best for shade since they cover a huge area without taking up much ground space, and you'll never get it back in your lifetime if you cut it. My yard is like a palace with a high roof supported by 3 great pillars and 7 smaller ones. An island of comfortable shade in the summer, where walking elsewhere is scorching sun.

There used to be one more maple that reached out over the neighbor's barren yard to get some sun, but it fell over about 10 years ago. I chain sawed a few slices from it (as many as I could get before my rental saw's blade was too dull), and the thinner ones warped pretty badly. Might still be able to get them to consistent enough thickness for bending, though. And the full width slice from the center of the log that I plan to use for a harp ukulele back is 1/2" thick, so I definitely have enough thickness to get it flat, and perhaps even slice into two backs. Not one-piece backs since the center is cupped, but I'll be cutting it in half to join at the bark edge, and the two pieces could each be sliced before joining.

Hi Dennis. I would agree if it was a place i lived at. Bought this land and started to build a small house on it. It middle of Jungle we had a rooad up the mountain because at the top of the mountain there is a tv station (far from my land) but this is why the road was ok, its a dirk road,, then 6 month ago they stopped working on this tv station, therefor no trucks went up there so now last time I went up there the road is a jungle again haha grows like crazy here. trees has fallen across the dirt road and jungle taken over much of it. Also I was working so hard up there to build the house that I collapsed, due to breathing mahogany dust from sanding the floor i put it, and also cause if the the extreme head together with the extreme humidity in the jungle. The land is awesome flat and you see out over the island (Lombok, indonesia) So itsvery hard to continue as my heart situation is now due to the collapse. So thats why i wanted to make some use if the land and cut this tree. I do agree, that tree sure stops alot of stright sun. but as i will nto be there so much I will take it down and make sure to make some good looking back & sides. I will send you all somephotos of the tree and land as i get up there next time next week .

If you're determined to cut it up for guitar building, then I would cut it into the shortest lengths that someone with a "wood mizer" type mill can safely handle and take it to them. If you cut it too short they won't be able to grab it with the clamping devises on the carriage. This might be 6' or 8' and they can cut it into 1/2" thickness. Take these home and cut into your desired lengths whether 90cm or whatever, sticker and stack in a covered area. Allow yourself a lot of extra length on these because of checking and splitting as they dry out. Also get the ends painted immediately after cross cutting. After air drying for at least 2 yrs. you can resaw into 1/4"thick pieces, sticker again and stack again for another year or so. When I sticker the last time, I use metal rods on both ends of the "stack" and tighten wire around them to keep the stack from warping or cupping. I would attach a pic but it's been too long and I'm not sure about that anymore.

Thanks Mike.. Its in the far up on a mountain in the jungle of indonesia. Cant move them without first making initil cuts to quarter or as Brian (rbuddy) Suggested. So far I thinki. am going with that idea. Sounds good to me. Although worry my cuts will not be straight enought to get as much wood as possible from the cuts. cutting the log into 4 pieces 110 cm lenghts each or something like it. then the Like you can see above on the sketch Brian made.

Will it least try on the smallest part first like that if i am not happy with it, I think I will then just cut Full Quarter pieves then take to standing bandsaw as here in the islamnd i am at I have not found any of those log milling saws. Just enourmous 15hp standing bandsaws with 10+ width blades on.

Sorry, off topic but…

Yeah, we used to process a lot of spruce for tops there. Check out these rounds and that young idiot in there somewhere!

Well that's even worse! Raw wood processing is harder, dustier, less profitable work than home building. And to do it without the proper tools and experience will waste so much of the wood. Mine was a special case where the tree was too small to really be useful and would go 100% to waste if I didn't do what I could with the tool I had. I think you'd be a lot better off just selling the land as-is and buying sets to build with.

But if you insist on doing it, I'd go with at least 1" thick. The additional stiffness will reduce the extent of warping, and even if the first slice off each surface is unusable, you'll still get a few slices from each billet. I have a mango set that includes the first slice (back surface all fuzzy and dark), which may not be usable due to how warpy it is, and a bunch of fine cracks in it. Whoever processed it should have scrapped that slice and paired the good one with the next one.

There’s a number of ways to breakdown your log into products. The best, as far as recovery depends on the logs form. For planning,without sawing,Divide the log into quadrants and lengths. Some fields may be good for one or more products not be good for others. Dissect the log to recover the products in multiple of the shorter lengths (backs) while maintaining a length for at least one of your longest lengths product(sides). It’s generally easier to get longer shallow cutting , than deep clears(Tops and backs).


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Thanks alot for all the great input. I have good information now. I will send you follow up on how it goes, take photos along the way so you all can see how it goes. Agaoin thanks a million for all the great input.

Lars