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 Post subject: Re: Thoughts on this
PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 11:03 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 4:01 pm
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Location: UK
It's how I do solid linings. Bend a side width piece instead of 8 individual pieces, then cut them off. I score with a cutting gauge, both sides but my home made scalpel version will do. You don't have to cut all the way through, a fine toothed hand saw will follow the scribed lines.


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 Post subject: Re: Thoughts on this
PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 12:50 pm 
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Contributing Member
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Joined: Sat Mar 06, 2010 4:15 pm
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First name: Joey
Last Name: Holliday
City: Palmetto
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jfmckenna wrote:
Sounds to me like your original end mill trick ought to work out well. The cool thing about doing it this way is that now your bindings are bent perfectly. If you have a drum sander it would be easy to thickness the bindings perfectly.


Yeah that is the one bonus about doing it this way. My binding jobs are pretty s****y to date. I do have a drum sander and I plan to thickness the mahogany purflings slightly proud before installation.


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 Post subject: Re: Thoughts on this
PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 12:57 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 06, 2010 4:15 pm
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James Ringelspaugh wrote:
Michael.N. wrote:
You make it sound difficult. It's a very straightforward task that requires little in the way of tooling.

Indeed, a gramil or similar is very easy and would definitely be my choice. It's a self-jigging tool, meaning that each pass helps define the next pass a little better making for very consistent repeatable results. Start by just barely scoring the wood, then the next pass rides in the groove you just made. As long as you start with a sharp blade, have the work somewhat supported on a bench or similar, don't apply any real pressure or try to force things, and let the tool do the work by just riding in the groove, then it's pretty mindless and quick work. Even if it takes 50 passes you're done in 10 minutes with a perfectly flat edge on the resulting binding. A bandsaw or similar can easily grab unsupported wood, making it crack and even if it goes well you're left with a jagged edge that can be quite difficult to get perfectly flat when it comes time to fit the binding.


That was my thought with the gramil after it was mentioned. I'll need to make my own if I do it that way. The blade on the LMI Gramil is much too thick and angled to leave a clean cut. The wood is very stiff and brittle (but excellent tap) and I'm a bit worried about running a crack with anything other than a very, very thin kerf blade.


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 Post subject: Re: Thoughts on this
PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 2:12 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2007 3:21 pm
Posts: 3446
Location: Alexandria MN
I thickness my bindings in the sander all the time. Thickness is straightforward.

For fine tuning height cut a slot in a carrier board the same width as the binding and slightly less deep than the desired final thickness. Works quite well and the sanded side is pretty true.

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 Post subject: Re: Thoughts on this
PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 5:32 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Sat Apr 19, 2008 10:08 pm
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Joey,
The trick with the gramil, or any shop-made tool that is similar, is to go with many light passes. You need to be firm in terms of holding your tool's fence to the edge of your workpiece, but light in your cutting pressure. After several passes, you will have a cut that is more or less self-guiding. Do this: Practice on some thin scraps of whatever gnarly wood you can find in your shop. When you can cut several strips without a wandering blade, then your technique is good. At that point, mount a freshly sharpened blade and take the plunge. Worst case scenario is not all that bad: Worst case is you won't like the strips you cut off. Okay. Go to alternative binding strips on this one and use your grain-matched cutoff scheme on the next one. That outcome would not be a defeat--only a change in plan.
Best of luck to you. And please keep us in the loop. Everyone is rooting for your successful outcome!


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