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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 3:22 am 
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Mahogany
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First name: Michael
Last Name: Waszazak
City: Vancouver
State: Wasington
Zip/Postal Code: 98665
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I sent this one off to the east coast today. The recipient is giving it as a surprise gift. 

Thanks again to you guys. I've learned so much through this forum. I don't post much (mostly because you guys beat me to the punch) but read the forum almost daily.



Top - Sitka

B+S - Amazon Rosewood

Binding - Macassar Ebony

Headstock plate - Hmmm?! Not sure. Any guesses?

Sound hole binding - EIR

Neck - Mahogony

Bridge - Macassar ebony

Tuners - Gotoh

Fininsh - Enduro-Var Gloss



A few lessons learned:

- Be sure there's a case available to fit your design before you build

- Don't let light colored dust get in the pores of ebony binding

- With Enduro-Var, when you think you've got all the pores filled with epoxy, do yet another coat. 

- I couldn't get rid of the swirls marks in the Enduro-Var. The hand held buffer isn't cutting it, but I don't have room for a full size buffing wheel.

- I like doing sound hole binding!

ImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImage


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These users thanked the author MikeWaz for the post: Durero (Mon Jun 06, 2016 11:50 pm)
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 5:43 am 
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Turned out well!
Beautiful guitar Michael, headplate guess - Zircote?

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 6:27 am 
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Very nice!

Thanks for sharing it. How did you come up with the design? I really like the shape & proportions.

Kevin Looker

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 6:56 am 
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Nice, congrats!

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 7:50 am 
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very good guitar! My guess for the head stock is also Zircote. I using it in my current build.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 8:01 am 
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Beautiful guitar! The end wedge and end pin design is amazing. I just tried doing basic miters on the purfling in an end wedge. I think I took a couple years off my life from the stress of it. Your design is great!

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 8:15 am 
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Mahogany
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Joined: Sun Oct 12, 2014 7:22 pm
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Very nice guitar!


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 8:19 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2007 3:21 pm
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Location: Alexandria MN
Nice! I love the little details.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 9:08 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2005 5:17 am
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City: Tyler
State: Texas
Beautiful Amazon! And great execution all around!


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 10:23 am 
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Very nice work with minimal classy design and details. CONGRATS. Not sure what number guitar this is for you but from your post I gather you are a later start builder, if so you sure seem to learn quickly. If it sounds as good as it looks,it and you are real winners.
Tom

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 11:36 am 
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I love the body design. Lovely treatment on the headstock as well!


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 12:27 pm 
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First name: George
City: Seattle
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Status: Amateur
N-i-i-i-c-e! [:Y:] [:Y:] [:Y:]

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 1:17 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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First name: Mike/Mikey/Michael/hey you!
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Country: U.S.A. /America-yea!!
Focus: Build
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very nice.
And you got the neck end strap button located where it should be.

Mike

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 1:36 pm 
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Mahogany
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Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 7:51 pm
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First name: Michael
Last Name: Waszazak
City: Vancouver
State: Wasington
Zip/Postal Code: 98665
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Ah...yes. Zircote. That seems right. I've not worked with it before.

Thanks for all the positive comments. I caught the guitar building bug full-on about a year ago. This is my third build since then. Prior to that I did a kit and really bad scratch build in 2001. Back then there wasn't nearly as much good info on the web. That's made all the difference in me being able to do good work.

In regard to the body shape, it's based off Taylor's GS, but about 1/8 inch shorter. That shortness wasn't intentional. Not sure how that happened. I probably need to switch up the mold/jig I'm using.

The end pin design was something I had to do to cover a mistake. :) I learned to do purling miters from a tut here on OLF. The first two were a little rough, but now I look forward to doing them.

The last two guitars I've built sound really good, but I can't take too much credit for that. I think it will take me many more builds until I understand and can tame the variables that shape tone. Looking forward to it!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 2:52 pm 
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That is a beauty Mike. And you even bound the soundhole [:Y:] [:Y:] [:Y:] Very well done!!!

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 4:07 pm 
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Nice looking guitar


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 4:56 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Sat Aug 08, 2015 1:36 am
Posts: 351
MikeWaz wrote:
I sent this one off to the east coast today. The recipient is giving it as a surprise gift. 

Thanks again to you guys. I've learned so much through this forum. I don't post much (mostly because you guys beat me to the punch) but read the forum almost daily.



Top - Sitka

B+S - Amazon Rosewood

Binding - Macassar Ebony

Headstock plate - Hmmm?! Not sure. Any guesses?

Sound hole binding - EIR

Neck - Mahogony

Bridge - Macassar ebony

Tuners - Gotoh

Fininsh - Enduro-Var Gloss



A few lessons learned:

- Be sure there's a case available to fit your design before you build

- Don't let light colored dust get in the pores of ebony binding

- With Enduro-Var, when you think you've got all the pores filled with epoxy, do yet another coat. 

- I couldn't get rid of the swirls marks in the Enduro-Var. The hand held buffer isn't cutting it, but I don't have room for a full size buffing wheel.

- I like doing sound hole binding!

ImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImage


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Great work Mike .. something to aspire to...hope you don't mind me asking but how do you line the soundhole like that


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 9:44 pm 
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Koa
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Posts: 1906
Location: Raleigh, NC
First name: Steve
Last Name: Sollod
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Very nice!

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 10:33 pm 
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Zip/Postal Code: 54601
Country: USA
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Status: Semi-pro
A real jewel and something to be proud of. It really don't get better than that.

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LaCrosse WI 54601


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2016 12:07 am 
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Nice job, it looks great Mike.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2016 4:10 am 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 7:51 pm
Posts: 94
First name: Michael
Last Name: Waszazak
City: Vancouver
State: Wasington
Zip/Postal Code: 98665
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
cablepuller1 wrote:
Great work Mike .. something to aspire to...hope you don't mind me asking but how do you line the soundhole like that


Binding the soundhole is a lot like binding the edges of the guitar. But one big difference is that you can't really count on tape for clamping action as you bind. You need to find a way to apply uniform pressure to the full circumference of the soundhole.

I've seen a few ways of doing this. What's worked for me is pretty simple. I found a round canister in our pantry that has a slight taper. It's a little smaller on the bottom and slightly larger toward the top. (A photo is below.) I use this to wedge the purfling and binding against the edge of the soundhole. So my process is:

- Prep the edge of soundhole so it's flat and square.
- Apply a thin coat of shellac to prevent CA from staining the spruce
- Butt the purfling against the soundhole and trim to fit. (I use a scarf joint with the joint at the top.)
- Use the canister as a wedge and glue the purfling in place using thin CA.
- Use bending iron to bend binding to the shape of the soundhole.
- Trim the binding to length, again with a scarf joint at the top.
- Use the canister as a wedge and glue in place.
- Just to be sure, I saturate the area, top and back with additional CA
- Scrape and then sand the purfling and binding so it's flush with the top on both sides.

It probably goes without saying, but I do all this before bracing the top.


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These users thanked the author MikeWaz for the post: cablepuller1 (Sat Jun 04, 2016 6:19 am)
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2016 6:20 am 
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Cocobolo
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MikeWaz wrote:
cablepuller1 wrote:
Great work Mike .. something to aspire to...hope you don't mind me asking but how do you line the soundhole like that


Binding the soundhole is a lot like binding the edges of the guitar. But one big difference is that you can't really count on tape for clamping action as you bind. You need to find a way to apply uniform pressure to the full circumference of the soundhole.

I've seen a few ways of doing this. What's worked for me is pretty simple. I found a round canister in our pantry that has a slight taper. It's a little smaller on the bottom and slightly larger toward the top. (A photo is below.) I use this to wedge the purfling and binding against the edge of the soundhole. So my process is:

- Prep the edge of soundhole so it's flat and square.
- Apply a thin coat of shellac to prevent CA from staining the spruce
- Butt the purfling against the soundhole and trim to fit. (I use a scarf joint with the joint at the top.)
- Use the canister as a wedge and glue the purfling in place using thin CA.
- Use bending iron to bend binding to the shape of the soundhole.
- Trim the binding to length, again with a scarf joint at the top.
- Use the canister as a wedge and glue in place.
- Just to be sure, I saturate the area, top and back with additional CA
- Scrape and then sand the purfling and binding so it's flush with the top on both sides.

It probably goes without saying, but I do all this before bracing the top.

Great stuff Mike thanks... always wanted to know how it's done..maybe brave and try on my next build..


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2016 7:19 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Sun Aug 16, 2015 5:30 am
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First name: Fredrik
Country: Australia
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Love it Mike! Really elegant design.

Do you have any photos of the bracing layout?


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 7:42 am 
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Nice! Another way to bind a soundhole is to do it with the top thick, treat it like part of the rosette accept cut the binding channel deeper. Inlay the binding, cut the soundhole and sand the back to remove any Spruce.



These users thanked the author DannyV for the post: MikeWaz (Sun Jun 05, 2016 7:12 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 2:46 pm 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 7:51 pm
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First name: Michael
Last Name: Waszazak
City: Vancouver
State: Wasington
Zip/Postal Code: 98665
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
kibs wrote:
Love it Mike! Really elegant design.

Do you have any photos of the bracing layout?

No. I'm sorry, I don't. I followed plans from Georgia Luthier Supply.


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