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On to pore fill. I’m going to attempt to make a long form video of the pore fill process using the mahogany 00. This is the ziricote one.

https://youtube.com/shorts/g0nwP9BEVNE? ... YGwdAzgTwK

Brad


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Still looking good after pore fill, on to topcoats!




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Brad--

At what grit are you leveling the pore filler? I saw from the video that you are using Scotchbrite at some point. First sandpaper, then Scotchbrite?

That’s right - 220 to get any high spots and maroon scotchbrite at the end. I stay away from the corners with the paper if at all possible.

BTW - I did an adhesion test a while back and 220 & maroon scotchbrite behaved the same way.


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First topcoat is on.





Brad


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I could replace my mirror and shave with that. I'm sure it would be much more enjoyable!

A rosette today.

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Jim Watts
http://jameswattsguitars.com

All done with spraying on the ziricote 00. Excited to level and buff it this week.

https://youtube.com/shorts/PS3PSXuS-RM? ... Bjfffqqu1N

Also, anyone else try this stuff? Im going to try it out this week.



Brad


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No, but I see there are others manufacturing similar products, Mirka for example.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Just a photo essay of 4.5 hours or so yestersday, on a viola neck. Patterned after a Storioni, it has a slightly more slender look than a stocky violin scroll, though it isn't much bigger.

Cut the profile and smooth out with files. Drill the peg holes to the center from both sides.
Cut the mortise in to somewhat below the holes. This will be smoothed up when everything else is smoothed and all the curves and lines made to look right. This Mahogany is very stringy. Not much fun to carve.
Cut the sides down.
Saw to remove waste from the first turn.
Carve it down.
I didn't get the final turn of the bass side done.
When cutting the treble pegbox side, and chip came out.
You can see why, when you read the crazy grain on the top.
I'll have to glue a sliver in.

Then it is just light shaving cuts, putting in the circular thumb rest under the nut, and doing the fluting and chamfers.

It is like sculpture that has to have a set size, more or less.

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Why be normal?

Jim, What's the wood in the inner ring? Inquiring minds want to know. Well, mine anyway.

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

Pat, it’s spalted maple I had. I used my last bit up on this rosette, wish I had more!

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Jim Watts
http://jameswattsguitars.com

Well, not guitar making per se but there’s at least a guitar involved—I’ve been working with some new software for my laser. For instrument making, I just use it for logos and labels—stuff like that, but I do other non-instrument stuff with it too.

The software I used to process the photo was ImagR. Pretty neat stuff. Then brought it into Lightburn. Scrap plywood…


Dave


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Dave, what laser are you using? I built a modified Jtech controller to add support for the image burning capability of Aspire. It works pretty well.

I also modified it to add Z axis burning so I can make things like these bowls.





Brad


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I have a JTech that works on my CNC router, but this one is a 22 Watt Creality Falcon 2. No Z axis like the J Tech has, but the 22 watt diode absolutely rocks. Plus having it in a vented enclosure keeps my smoke detectors happier.

Nice engraving on the bowls by the way!

Dave

Thanks. I’m heading in the direction of a Thunder Laser but I have no space for something of that footprint in the garage and don’t want to run a laser in the basement. Working on it though. Know anyone that wants a used treadmill or elliptical?


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Those are really nice, but way more machine than I'd ever need--and like you, my shop space is very limited. Now that they have diodes powerful enough to do single pass cuts of pretty thick wood and decent engraving, I'm happy. I have a CNC mill if I need to cut metal!

Treadmills and ellipticals sound like way too much work...

Dave

I had read about this for NC lacquer on another forum. I've used guide coats on motorcycle tins and wondered what they were using on guitar lacquer.

This guy posted on amazon that he didn't like it

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Measure Twice,

Karl Borum

Doing a simple diamonds inlay on this 000 fretboard. Diamonds are stuck down with a tiny drop of Titebond. Wait an hour or so and then use a small chisel to scribe and then pop them off with a razor blade and ready to rout the cavities for the inlays.

Here we have a batch of 250 +/- patriotic[Red White and Blue] Gtr tops in the dry room from last weeks flat top gtr cuttings.
Red cedar- Our EarthTone Sort. It's really old stuff. There's no telling how long this log either laid in the forest covered in moss, or stood dead standing, soaking up 10 feet of rain per yr. It's the water and the oils of the cedar and time that cause the colors of Browns, maroons, mottle in this sort and that cannot be replicated. But for sure a LOOOONG-long time. 100 yrs- more?
Cedar is very rot resistant. And the log this was cut from was riddled with pocket rot. At least half of all the full size boards[booksets] cut were trimmed to ukulele because they wouldn't pattern even a parlor gtr.

And then there is the white and blue. Those are sitka boards/booksets. From float log[ the blue ones and some white] and other salvage bridge stringer or blowdown.
and most of this was a challenge for Ryan to cut. Water Saturated and heavy as lead. Cut 4 sets and the saw would start diving.

Unloading this today and surface in the wide belt sander this afternoon or tomorrow.

More laser fun—cut some Forbon flatwork for lapsteel pickups. I’ll get around to winding later this week.

Dave




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Alright, we’re ready for the buffer! I’m seriously in love with the Deros sander. Can you love a sander? I mean…. I guess. Anyway, it works great.

1 mil sealer
2 mils pore fill
-4 mils topcoat







Brad


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Fancy orange sunburst? Nope! As promised here are a couple shots using the Eagle Abrasives Kovax dry guide coat. I used the orange version. It certainly makes it very clear where has been sanded and where there is still work to do. It also highlights any scratches missed from previous grits which can be really hard to see on a bright spruce top. The pics show after the guide coat is applied, then after sanding first with a 5” ROS to get the main body, and then a 3” ROS to get the edges. I think it will be useful going forward.









Brad


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Very nice demo! How would you rate your orange Kovex GC on a scale of 1-10?
Does it show up on dark wood too?

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Measure Twice,

Karl Borum

The Guide Coat looks interesting. How fine of a grit on a sanded surface can it be used on? Any concerns about a fine powder like that getting places on the bench or in the shop where you wouldn't want it? Or lungs.

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Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right - Robert Hunter