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Just in case you’re thinking of using it …. Buyer beware.
This simple plant stand made of kiln dried (8-10%)Granadillo.
Two wiped on coats of Osmo Polyx Satin. For the last month I’ve wiped off the dried chalky residue about every 3 days. The pic below shows how bad it gets in just 3 days.
I have been in touch with the mfg. rep here in the US. They claim it was moisture causing it. Not so according to my moisture meter. I think it’s reacting to the resins but they won’t say that.
Just be aware if you’re thinking of using it on something exotic you don’t want to ruin.
Horrible picture but that’s what resizing does for you.

Tom

Thanks for posting Tom. A year or two back when Osmo was being talked about here, I bought a couple quarts to try. At the time I seem to remember contacting Osmo and asking about oily woods and I think they suggested a sealer like shellac on oily wood under the Osmo. But that was a while back and I didn't keep the email response.

I tried some on a couple test tiles of hog, since I was most interested in it for necks. I decided it wasn't for me for guitars but will use it on something.

My biggest fear was using it and finding it didn't work. Since it is a hard wax finish I'm not sure anything else would ever stick to it reliably.

Nice project sorry the finish went south and good luck. If you try to refinish, I'd suggest scrapping, wipe down with min spirits or naptha, sand, wipe down again and then shellac and some other finish. Oil based finishes need a sealer coat like shellac over oily woods too, or it won't dry, sometimes forever.

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Brian R, Wood Mechanic
N8ZED

I love Osmo. I follow the schedule that Josh House posted. It’s on a number of guitars including my daily driver and no issues at all.

I use the 1101 as a base coat and then 3043 as the topcoat.

I see you’re using 3054 which is a “thicker, lower-VOC version of satin that is suitable for cloth or white pad application only. “ according to the docs.

Could be the culprit, who knows.

Brad


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Brad

Have you used it directly over rosewoods, cocobolo, ebony or the like?

I see the 1101 is supposed be good in that application, and I have some, just haven't had time to try it.

Thanks for the reminder to look at it again!

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Brian R, Wood Mechanic
N8ZED

Jumping in here…….i have used the osmo over mahogany, maple (curly and spalted),Indian rosewood and cocobolo. I applied it following Josh Houses method using 1101 then 3043. I think this works great for neck finishes (hog and maple) it is easily touched up if needed but that is rare.
On the rosewood it looks fine but is easily marred and needs constant attention. I used it on an urn (box) that I was asked to make. The woods were spalted maple and cocobolo, it worked out fine and seems to be ok over an oily wood, but it’s not my choice for something like a guitar body which is subject to constant handling. For some reason it seems to standup well on mahogany necks, and it feels great to the player. Go figure!!!
My two pence.

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Remember, there are no stupid questions, only stupid answers!

Yeah, that’s a good point. I’ve only used it on necks. That being said, some of those necks had head plates that were rosewood, ziricote, walnut, and ebony. I followed the same process for the head plates. I haven’t used it on cocobolo.

Brad


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I've used the 1101 as a base coat under Osmo Polyx Hard Wax Oil (Satin) on EIR back and sides with no problems.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.