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Phillip Patton
PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 11:43 am 
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Location: Northeast Indiana
First name: Phillip
Last Name: Patton
City: Yoder
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Zip/Postal Code: 46798
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Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
It's another Menards Special. bliss

Mahogany back and sides, multi-piece WRC top, rosewood fretboard, not yet pictured. Ebony bridge. Ebony binding.

Body shape is small jumbo, or as close as I could get drawing it from pictures.


Image

Image

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http://www.pattonblades.com

The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price has faded.

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Freeman
PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 12:07 pm 
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Sweet. I'll be interested to see how you like the cedar top. Scale length? How did you brace it and how do you intend to tune it? (I'm a bit of a 12 string junkie)
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Phillip Patton
PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 12:35 pm 
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Freeman wrote:
Sweet. I'll be interested to see how you like the cedar top. Scale length? How did you brace it and how do you intend to tune it? (I'm a bit of a 12 string junkie)



I've used the same cedar on a few other guitars, and have liked the results so far. We'll see how it does with 12 strings on it.

The scale length is 25.5" I used standard X bracing on it, but made the braces about 25% taller and wider than I do for 6 strings.

I'm not sure yet how I'll be tuning it. I'm hoping it will do well with standard as well as lower tunings. We shall see. :)

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http://www.pattonblades.com

The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price has faded.

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Darrel Friesen
PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 12:54 pm 
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Looking good Phillip. I'm building an L-00 12 string right now (first 12 string) with a cedar top and am planning to tune it to standard. I may try C# tuning just to see what the Leadbelly fuss is about, but will likely stay at standard as I'm not real good at transposing when playing with others.

I have a 1987 Takamine with cedar top that has always been strung at standard pitch and has never had any issues with action, bridge lifting etc. I realize that it is likely somewhat overbuilt, but it does sound very good.
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Neil Gardiner
PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 1:46 pm 
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Looks very cool. Like it alot.

A picture of the bracing would be great if you have.

Neil
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Phillip Patton
PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 4:11 pm 
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Neil Gardiner wrote:
Looks very cool. Like it alot.

A picture of the bracing would be great if you have.

Neil


Sorry, I don't think I took a picture of the inside.

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The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price has faded.

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Shane Neifer
PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 4:49 pm 
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Hi Phil,

I have a Suzuki slothead 12 string with a cedar top that I have had since new in about 1982 and it sounds great and has held up very well. The bridge did lift once but i just glued it back down and it has been fine ever since.

Shane

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Phillip Patton
PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 5:33 pm 
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Shane Neifer wrote:
Hi Phil,

I have a Suzuki slothead 12 string with a cedar top that I have had since new in about 1982 and it sounds great and has held up very well. The bridge did lift once but i just glued it back down and it has been fine ever since.

Shane


This one will have a slotted head too. Seems like it would save a lot on weight.

One of these days I'm gonna get some spruce from you. :) Do you sell violin wedges?


Image


Image

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Phillip Patton

http://www.pattonblades.com

The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price has faded.

https://hoosierbladesmith.wordpress.com
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Shane Neifer
PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 7:08 pm 
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That is looking awesome Phil. You will really like the slothead (I do!). I have a few violin wedges here but almsot always have archtop mandolin sets which are great for violins as well except that they are slab cut and sawn already.

Thanks
Shane

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Phillip Patton
PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 4:22 pm 
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Shane Neifer wrote:
That is looking awesome Phil. You will really like the slothead (I do!). I have a few violin wedges here but almsot always have archtop mandolin sets which are great for violins as well except that they are slab cut and sawn already.

Thanks
Shane



Are the mandolin sets quartersawn?

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Phillip Patton

http://www.pattonblades.com

The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price has faded.

https://hoosierbladesmith.wordpress.com
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Phillip Patton
PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 4:25 pm 
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Status: Amateur
Got the neck angle set and the neck/body joint flossed:

Image

Image

Also got the heel cap glued on:

Image

And applied some brushing lacquer:

Image

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Phillip Patton

http://www.pattonblades.com

The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price has faded.

https://hoosierbladesmith.wordpress.com
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Shane Neifer
PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 6:51 pm 
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Phillip P. wrote:
Shane Neifer wrote:
That is looking awesome Phil. You will really like the slothead (I do!). I have a few violin wedges here but almsot always have archtop mandolin sets which are great for violins as well except that they are slab cut and sawn already.

Thanks
Shane



Are the mandolin sets quartersawn?


Yup, they are indeed quartersawn. Most of my processing of these go to Roger Siminoff who has been my longest and best mandolin set customer.

I just glued one up last night with fish glue for a violin I am going to make for my son.

Shane

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Phillip Patton
PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 7:20 pm 
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Well, then, as soon as I have some disposable $, I'll order a few sets. I want to make a couple violins, and a mandolin or two.

Shane Neifer wrote:
Phillip P. wrote:
Yup, they are indeed quartersawn. Most of my processing of these go to Roger Siminoff who has been my longest and best mandolin set customer.

I just glued one up last night with fish glue for a violin I am going to make for my son.

Shane

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Phillip Patton

http://www.pattonblades.com

The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price has faded.

https://hoosierbladesmith.wordpress.com
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Robbie_McD
PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 7:43 pm 
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Looking great Phil!
I really like the proportions of the upper bout.
Interesting that you ran the herringbone the same direction all the way around - I like it!
I can't say as I am familiar with too many slot-head 12-strings - your headstock looks great!

Rob
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Phillip Patton
PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 2:38 pm 
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Finished shaping and polishing the headstock:

Image


Image


Image


Image

And then glued on the fingerboard:


Image


Image

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Phillip Patton

http://www.pattonblades.com

The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price has faded.

https://hoosierbladesmith.wordpress.com
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Phillip Patton
PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 8:56 pm 
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Pore filling:


Image


Image


Image


Image

The fingerboard glued on:

Image

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Phillip Patton

http://www.pattonblades.com

The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price has faded.

https://hoosierbladesmith.wordpress.com
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Phillip Patton
PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 4:49 pm 
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Did the bridge today:

Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image

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Phillip Patton

http://www.pattonblades.com

The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price has faded.

https://hoosierbladesmith.wordpress.com
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Phillip Patton
PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 2:58 pm 
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Status: Amateur
Seal coat of shellac on the top:

Image


My hanging jig:

Image


First coat sprayed:

Image

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Phillip Patton

http://www.pattonblades.com

The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price has faded.

https://hoosierbladesmith.wordpress.com
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bill stewart
PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 8:58 am 
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That is one really nice guitar you are turning out although I have one concern and that is the design of the bridge. To me the bridge pin holes are a bit too close to the saddle slot and the countersunk edge at the upper base end is almost touching the slot. Would this not put quite a serious break angle on the string?

Bill S.

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Phillip Patton
PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 12:32 pm 
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Well, I actually finished this one several weeks ago, but didn't take pictures until now. I got lazy with the finish and left it satin. I actually like it, though most customers probably are more used to high gloss. But this one's for me to keep. :)

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


bill stewart wrote:
That is one really nice guitar you are turning out although I have one concern and that is the design of the bridge. To me the bridge pin holes are a bit too close to the saddle slot and the countersunk edge at the upper base end is almost touching the slot. Would this not put quite a serious break angle on the string?

Bill S.


I think you have a good point. It's mostly just a problem with the low E course, but I will be changing the bridge design on the next one.

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http://www.pattonblades.com

The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price has faded.

https://hoosierbladesmith.wordpress.com
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Darrel Friesen
PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 6:06 pm 
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Looks fantastic Phillip. I'm working on a mahogany/cedar 000 12 string right now, so definitely enjoy seeing similar ventures.
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nickton
PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 4:13 am 
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just curious: what type of tuning gears are those, and how long is the head stock? :P

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Phillip Patton
PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 8:26 am 
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nickton wrote:
just curious: what type of tuning gears are those, and how long is the head stock? :P


These are "Golden Age Restoration" tuners from Stew-Mac. They're a whole lot lighter than regular tuning machines. This whole guitar weighs about 4 pounds.

The headstock is about 8" long, maybe a bit more.

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http://www.pattonblades.com

The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price has faded.

https://hoosierbladesmith.wordpress.com
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pagagigi
PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2013 3:01 pm 
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have you the plans? Luigi
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Phillip Patton
PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2013 8:40 pm 
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pagagigi wrote:
have you the plans? Luigi



I didn't work from plans, but plans are available somewhere I'm sure. :)

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http://www.pattonblades.com

The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price has faded.

https://hoosierbladesmith.wordpress.com
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