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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 10:23 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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The newest Luthier Tips du Jour video is on the air. The topic is acoustic guitar top bracing and my glueing sequence.
Comments and discussion are welcome.

Enjoy!



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 11:34 am 
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Cocobolo
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Great video. I never knew why the peaks of the X and tone bars were in certain locations.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 11:45 am 
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Thanks so much for your efforts in putting these together Robbie. I'm a video editor, so well aware that even a simple show takes a lot of time to create, and yours are well thought out, and well presented. I know there are a bunch of us out there who appreciate them greatly.

Looking forward to your thoughts on voicing!

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 11:58 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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LiquidGabe wrote:
Thanks so much for your efforts in putting these together Robbie. I'm a video editor, so well aware that even a simple show takes a lot of time to create, and yours are well thought out, and well presented. I know there are a bunch of us out there who appreciate them greatly.

Looking forward to your thoughts on voicing!


Gabriel,
I am glad you are enjoying the videos. As a video editor you know what I am going through. I have almost thrown in the towel several times on this whole project. I have used up all the swear words I know in three languages! Last night I found out the hard way that Youtube doesn't accept videos over 10 minutes in length. By midnight I had the latest video down to exactly 10 minutes. gaah
I try and present the info in a digested manner that everyone can understand. I hope it is well received.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 12:01 pm 
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I just want to add another note of personal thanks to you, Robbie, for sharing this stuff with you. Your instructions are both clear and concise. [clap] [clap] [clap]

-Clint

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 1:22 pm 
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Hi Robbie,
Excellent video as usual. I didn't know that I was suppose to glue the finger braces to the X -brace, so I didn't do that on my first and current build. Thanks for bringing that to my attention.

Ron M.


Last edited by Ron M. on Mon Oct 20, 2008 1:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 1:22 pm 
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Very interesting video.

I'm looking forward to the voicing video but wondered if you'd elaborate a little bit on the comment about placing the peaks of the scallop at the node line, I assume for the closed ring mode which would probably be about there. I would think that the addition of mass there would favor that mode over other modes where there might not be a node at that point. At least I would think it would lower the amplitude of modes that didn't have a node along that contour.

So are you trying to favor that mode or are you shooting for something else entirely?

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 1:58 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Andy Birko wrote:
Very interesting video.

I'm looking forward to the voicing video but wondered if you'd elaborate a little bit on the comment about placing the peaks of the scallop at the node line, I assume for the closed ring mode which would probably be about there. I would think that the addition of mass there would favor that mode over other modes where there might not be a node at that point. At least I would think it would lower the amplitude of modes that didn't have a node along that contour.

So are you trying to favor that mode or are you shooting for something else entirely?


I don't think of it like that. Let me see if I can explain it. You know that sweet spot in the upper left hand corner of a top or back for example? If you hold it just right you can get a nice ring out of the piece of wood because you are holding it exactly at the node where not much amplitude is happening. If you hold it a bit off of the node then you deaden the waves and don't get a nice tap tone. Well, the peaks of the scallops are strategically placed at these known node areas. There are two camps when it comes to this stuff. One is the analytical camp and the other is the tactile camp. I am more in the tactile camp. The analytical camp (chladni etc.) definitely has its merits and one can compliment the other but you can certainly analyze this stuff to death.
If you want to understand the analytical side of things perhaps Ervin Somogyi or Alan Carruth can chime in here.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 4:17 pm 
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Robbie O'Brien wrote:
you can certainly analyze this stuff to death.


Yea, that darned engineering degree can drive one in that direction :lol: .

I'm trying to learn the "Whys" of stuff primarily because I don't build guitars (although I'm building one now) and there are no good plans or direction for the instrument I do build so I figure if I can understand a little about how a guitar works perhaps I can transfer that knowledge to bandura, or at least make better guesses. My current bandura design works pretty well but can certainly use some improvement/refinement.

I just went down stairs, held the top in the upper bout sweet spot and tapped the top for the guitar I'm building right now and could get a large variety of tones depending on where I tapped. I also held the X-brace about where you peak them and I could definitely spot the node you were speaking of right about where you said. The tap tone there was definitely louder and less damped when I held it in the right spot but was lacking the bottom end that it had when holding at the sound hole or the sweet spot in the upper bout.

To further explain my question a bit, the way I see it is this - from a structural standpoint (i.e. resisting bridge torque) I don't think that the peaks of the scallops are helping you very much. i.e. you could probably cut the peaks down to be the same height as the thinnest part of the brace and you'll still get mostly the same "strength" in the top (That's probably not entirely true but for the most part would be correct - weakest link sort of thing). I think we all agree thought that less isn't always more in the case of tone and adding mass can sometimes help rather than hinder.

If we look at these pics: http://www.phys.unsw.edu.au/~jw/guitar/ ... _engl.html one can easily see that sweet spot up in the upper left/right you were speaking of - a lot of modes have that spot as a node. Holding there and tapping must let a lot of the modes ring leading to a full sounding tap.

On the other hand, the area 3" in from the rim along the X-brace and tone bars don't seem to show up in very many of the modes - At least not to my eye. It does however show up in the mode at 221Hz (I think it's called ring and a half). I also recall reading that guys Like Al Carruth try to "close" that ring when it's open like the one in the link. That's implying to me that this is an "important" mode for the tone he's after.

I'm thinking leaving the mass in the peak at that node line should have less effect on that mode and any other mode which has nodes there but would lower the amplitude of modes that have antinodes in that spot. I can't really guess what the added stiffness in that local area would do but you'd think it would have to do something for tone as well (hopefully Al will chime in as I seem to recall reading a post of his a while back that directed how to shave to get certain effects in the chladni pattern). The more I think about it, it could be that the stiffness is way more important than the mass since shaving only changes mass linearly while it changes stiffness exponentially.

Here's a swag hypothesis I just came up with:

Thinning the braces loosens the top for added bass, but perhaps doing it by scalloping rather than just uniform thinning suppresses some, but not all of the lower frequency modes while favoring the "ring and a half" (if that's what it's called) to give the instrument a more balanced tone. Or to put it another way, a tone we like.

Thoughts?

p.s. sorry to ramble but it's difficult for me to get a grip on this stuff.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 4:41 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Andy Birko wrote:
Robbie O'Brien wrote:
you can certainly analyze this stuff to death.


Yea, that darned engineering degree can drive one in that direction :lol: .

I'm trying to learn the "Whys" of stuff primarily because I don't build guitars (although I'm building one now) and there are no good plans or direction for the instrument I do build so I figure if I can understand a little about how a guitar works perhaps I can transfer that knowledge to bandura, or at least make better guesses. My current bandura design works pretty well but can certainly use some improvement/refinement.

I just went down stairs, held the top in the upper bout sweet spot and tapped the top for the guitar I'm building right now and could get a large variety of tones depending on where I tapped. I also held the X-brace about where you peak them and I could definitely spot the node you were speaking of right about where you said. The tap tone there was definitely louder and less damped when I held it in the right spot but was lacking the bottom end that it had when holding at the sound hole or the sweet spot in the upper bout.

To further explain my question a bit, the way I see it is this - from a structural standpoint (i.e. resisting bridge torque) I don't think that the peaks of the scallops are helping you very much. i.e. you could probably cut the peaks down to be the same height as the thinnest part of the brace and you'll still get mostly the same "strength" in the top (That's probably not entirely true but for the most part would be correct - weakest link sort of thing). I think we all agree thought that less isn't always more in the case of tone and adding mass can sometimes help rather than hinder.

If we look at these pics: http://www.phys.unsw.edu.au/~jw/guitar/ ... _engl.html one can easily see that sweet spot up in the upper left/right you were speaking of - a lot of modes have that spot as a node. Holding there and tapping must let a lot of the modes ring leading to a full sounding tap.

On the other hand, the area 3" in from the rim along the X-brace and tone bars don't seem to show up in very many of the modes - At least not to my eye. It does however show up in the mode at 221Hz (I think it's called ring and a half). I also recall reading that guys Like Al Carruth try to "close" that ring when it's open like the one in the link. That's implying to me that this is an "important" mode for the tone he's after.

I'm thinking leaving the mass in the peak at that node line should have less effect on that mode and any other mode which has nodes there but would lower the amplitude of modes that have antinodes in that spot. I can't really guess what the added stiffness in that local area would do but you'd think it would have to do something for tone as well (hopefully Al will chime in as I seem to recall reading a post of his a while back that directed how to shave to get certain effects in the chladni pattern). The more I think about it, it could be that the stiffness is way more important than the mass since shaving only changes mass linearly while it changes stiffness exponentially.

Here's a swag hypothesis I just came up with:

Thinning the braces loosens the top for added bass, but perhaps doing it by scalloping rather than just uniform thinning suppresses some, but not all of the lower frequency modes while favoring the "ring and a half" (if that's what it's called) to give the instrument a more balanced tone. Or to put it another way, a tone we like.

Thoughts?

p.s. sorry to ramble but it's difficult for me to get a grip on this stuff.


Holy Cow!! You got it worse than I thought. They should make 12 step programs for guys like you! :D Sounds like you are losing sleep over this. Remember that if there were a recipe for this everyone would just follow the same recipe and bake the same cake. Fortunately in our case what works for some may not work for others. Some guys get satisfactory results one way and others another way. This is what keeps this game exciting. What I am trying to convey in the video is to not try and re-invent the wheel. I get this all the time in my classes where guys come in re-designing everything about the instrument before they have even built one. I recommend that folks draw on the knowledge of past generations. Use what has been given to us. What makes us think we can build a better mouse trap when past generations have already stayed up at night thinking about it? Take what has been given us and then make it your own. Add you own personal experience and touch.
I try and sum my bracing/voicing up in a couple of simple ideas. I think in terms of loose and stiff. Like a drum head the tighter the skin the higher the pitch and vice versa. The more mass the tighter it is the less mass the looser it is. The more pronounced the radius the tighter it is the less pronounced the looser it is. The wider the braces the looser it is, the higher the braces the tighter it is. This is kind of simplistic and there are always exceptions to the rule but these simple ideas have worked well for me. Rather than trying to analyze it I build guitars and make slight changes on every guitar. Over the years I have been able to hone in on a tone that works well for me. What works well for me may not work well for others. I could go on forever. Just get in the shop and make sawdust.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 5:16 pm 
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Robbie O'Brien wrote:
What I am trying to convey in the video is to not try and re-invent the wheel.


We're digressing from main thrust of this topic but that's exactly what I'm trying not to do!!! [uncle]

I had an engineering professor that once described engineering as "the artistic application of science and technology to achieve an end". In other words: don't re-invent the wheel. Engineering school was basically teaching you a bunch of techniques and tricks that you'd use out in the real world to solve a problem without having to re-invent. I'm looking for the same thing regarding instrument design.

As I alluded, the traditional banduras are mostly crap and the old Soviet made ones are even worse. My very first bandura (which was designed after reading all I could and asking a billion questions on MIMF back in 1998 & 1999) sounded better than 90% of the banduras out there in spite of all the flaws in it, almost certainly because the wise luthiers on that site steered me in the right direction - a direction opposite of where bandura tradition lies. Believe me, if there was a tradition in bandura making that was worth following, I'd certainly do it.

I once read - a wise man learns from his mistakes, a brilliant one learns from other's mistakes.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 5:23 pm 
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hey Robbie! that was an very proffesional presentation! I enjoyed it very much. thanks you for sharing your expertise! jody


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 4:25 am 
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Thanks for the great videos! This is clearing up a lot of the questions I have about building my first acoustic guitar.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 3:40 pm 
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Robbie,
Should all braces that come in contact with the x-brace be glued to the x-brace, or just the tone bars and the finger braces? In the video I thought I saw you applying glue to the end of the soundhole braces? Thanks again.

Ron M.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 4:40 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Ron M. wrote:
Robbie,
Should all braces that come in contact with the x-brace be glued to the x-brace, or just the tone bars and the finger braces? In the video I thought I saw you applying glue to the end of the soundhole braces? Thanks again.

Ron M.


Ron,

Any brace that touches another brace I add glue to it.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 5:34 pm 
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Great video Robbie as always.I`d love to be able to save that on my computer somehow.
James

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 7:24 pm 
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James W B wrote:
Great video Robbie as always.I`d love to be able to save that on my computer somehow.
James


Firefox? Check out Downloadhelper - get it from the Firefox web site.

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