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PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 9:33 am 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Thu Mar 12, 2009 5:36 am
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Location: SW Pa
First name: John
Last Name: Kitchen
State: SW Pa
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I am starting my second build. This one more scratch than the first. I'll make my own neck and fret board. All advise is welcome!
Its a Sycamore/Adi 00 cutaway shortscale 12 fret (so far)Can I make a 12 fret shortscale? I just finished building a 14 fret, my first. Do I do the bridge placement the same? What other factors to ponder? How do I figure out my fret placement?
While at it.....does anyone have the bend time and temps for Sycamore?
Thanks ahead for the help!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 10:12 am 
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Cocobolo
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First name: Brendan
Last Name: Dwyer
City: tolland
State: CT
Zip/Postal Code: 06084
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you'll need to figure your bridge placement, bracing location, etc based on your scale length. heelblock location is a function of the 12 fret location.

Basically, you'll need to work up a drawing of the fretboard and body to come up with the critical dimensions. I think the Cumpiano book is helpful in that. One of the first chapters shows a sketch of the critical dimensions concerning the nut, fretboard, fretboard end, fret locations, string spacing, saddle locations, string length etc.

hope that helps

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 10:53 am 
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Cocobolo
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The upper bout is usually about an inch longer than with the 14 fretter. That helps keep the bridge from being too far down the lower bout.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 11:03 am 
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Koa
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Location: Powell River BC Canada
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A twelve fretter is going to place your bridge closer to the bottom of the guitar. Using a shorter scale length might be useful to keep your bridge near the "sweet spot".
If you want a full 20 fret fingerboard, you might have to move the soundhole & / or extend the fingerboard into the soundhole.
As Bren said, make a full scale drawing of the fingerboard & body. Figure out what scale length you want to use & lay out the bridge / saddle location. Re-locate your X braces to provide support for the bridge.
Accurate layout is important at this point. I suggest making notes as you go.
Hey... This is one of the really fun parts. Feel free to play with the body shape. You might want to make it a little longer in the lower bout. Refine the curves to please your eye... There's room for a little creativity here.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 12:01 pm 
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First name: Dennis
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If you want to design your own shapes and bracing layouts, I'd recommend picking up a copy of Ervin Somogyi's books (or at least the first one). The chapter on differences between 12 and 14 fret necks is pretty short, but after reading the rest of the book, it's not too hard to visualize the difference it will make and decide how you want to shape everything else around it. As Daniel mentioned, the main thing is that it moves the bridge away from the "sweet spot".


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 12:30 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Thu Mar 12, 2009 5:36 am
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Location: SW Pa
First name: John
Last Name: Kitchen
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Country: USA
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hmm. I have the body shape I am after (and I cut it out already) I guess I will do 14 frets short scale. I have a sample of one to measure from. Thanks all. I would love to get Mr. Somogyi's books sometime soon.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 6:05 pm 
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Koa
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

What Todd said!!!!!!!!! This is a 12 fret 24.58" scale. I also use this body for 13 and 14 fretters too.
Image

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 8:23 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Tue May 13, 2008 10:44 am
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Location: Virginia
Don't worry about the redesign of the body. You will make a good guitar with 12 frets on a 14 fret design. Been there, done that, sounds great.


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