Official Luthiers Forum!

Whatever the process, the result is lovely.
Beautiful uke!

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

This apears to be a moderate investment (perhaps high investment for hobby builders). But it is interesting. I hope this thread continues and more experiences are added. The $200 finish can, how many bodies can it do? I like this gel pore fill concept. How hard to sand back to wood? On any of your samples, did you try a heat gun to peel off the finish? That's my guess as to what it would take to remove in a reasonable amount of time (say you made a mistake). What RPM buffer speed? Here, I am guessing going higher would be a good thing (than say 800-900 RPM).

Big reason Taylor went to this type of finish was to satisfy polution mandates (minimize release of volitiles to atmosphere). Is this stuff explosive? Is it carcinogenic? Or poisonous? What kind of setup (safety) does a home builder need to have?

Mike

I also found your discussion of the fact that another polyester finish would not cure under the lamp. I think the "trade secret" is the finely tuned uv catalyst which will only react given the proper uv wavelength. Guess this way, they keep you locked into their product line. Who wants to spend $2500 for a new lamp everytime you switch or try a new product? This I would like to learn more about.

Mike

I was about to order one of these kits today but then thought I'd write to Kevin Ryan and get his advice. I was under the impression that he used a u.v. system but he said...no....it's a catalyzed polyester from Simtec Coatings.

Apparently the u.v. bulbs don't last all that long (quoted about 250 hours) but it's only a few hundred dollars to replace I understand. I was talking to a company that made the u.v. polyester to see what kind of bulbs to buy if I wanted to make my own booth but by the end of the call it was apparent that the bulbs are desinged to emit specific, multiple wavelengths and that I wouldn't be able to simply go out and buy a generic u.v. bulb to do this.

What took me aback was the cost of the material at nearly $200 a gallon. But I was pleased to hear that it works well to apply it by hand.

I'm so glad you posted this. I'll be ordering the kit tomorrow. This thread was exactly the kick in the butt I needed.

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I read Emerson on the can. A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds...true...but a consistent reading of Emerson has its uses nevertheless.

StuMusic

Hi Pat,

I tried to contact you directly but I couldn't figure out how to do it.

I'm going to be in Ottawa in a few weeks and I'd really like to see the cure UV system. Please let me know if this is doable and please contact me through my regular email address below:

wm17959(a)hotmail.com

Sincerely,

Wolf
www.wolfmoehrle.com

O.K. I just figured it out. Now I feel like an idiot!

Wolf

This finish sounds wonderful! I need to start saving my pennies...

Instead of sanding away the area under the fretboard extension, could you just mask it off?

Also, how much sanding is required with this system? I HATE sanding nitro.

Nice looking uke, by the way. I don't know much about ukes. Do they all use nylon strings?

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Regards,
Phillip Patton

http://www.pattonblades.com

The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price has faded.

https://hoosierbladesmith.wordpress.com

Certainly, Wolf you can come over and have a look at the finishing system. I'm assuming you figured out how to pm me so I'll await your message.

Phillip, I suppose you could mask off under the fret board extension area and save some sanding. I should try that. How much sanding? The schedule I've come to after having cured the top coat is:

1) 400 grit dry sanding to level and remove nibs.
2) 600 grit wet
3) 1000 grit wet
4) 2000 grit wet
5) coarse buffing
6) fine buffing

I did try going up through finer grits with micro-mesh before buffing but I didn't seem to gain anything in reduced buffing time. If all goes well, I think I'll be able to finish a guitar in one long day although I haven't done it yet.

I am by no means an expert about ukuleles but, as far as I know, they all use nylon strings. I invite someone to correct me if I am wrong about that.

Pat

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There are three kinds of people:

Those that make things happen,
those that watch things happen,
and those that wondered what happened.

I've been practicing on various scrap pieces for the last few days and I'm very impressed with this finish so far! I may be ready to try an actual guitar next week....

Justin

Thanks for answering my questions! While we're on the subject, what brand of sandpaper do you use?

_________________
Regards,
Phillip Patton

http://www.pattonblades.com

The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price has faded.

https://hoosierbladesmith.wordpress.com

The 400 grit is the gold coloured stuff from 3M. On the package they call it "Sandblaster". I get it at Canadian Tire. I like it because it lasts quite a while before clogging up. The 2000 Grit is also 3M and I get it from Lee Valley. The 600, and 1000 grit I also get from Canadian Tire and it's labelled IE on the back.

Pat

_________________
There are three kinds of people:

Those that make things happen,
those that watch things happen,
and those that wondered what happened.