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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 10:11 am 
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Koa
Koa
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Joined: Wed Jan 24, 2007 2:45 pm
Posts: 1374
Location: Calgary, Canada
Status: Amateur
I finished spraying the neck and body on one over a week ago. I just had a revelation that I forgot to install the marker dots in the fingerboard binding, doh! I guess I have a couple of options. These are abalone dots going into curly maple binding. Drill the holes to correct depth, install the dots as close to flush or a hair lower than flush and carefully wick in thin CA avoiding getting any on the lacquer finish. Scrape level with a razor blade and then drop fill with lacquer if required.

Second option (or possible necessity) would be to install, scrape/sand level the entire fretboard binding, then spray another coat or two of lacquer. Of course this would mean adding another week or so to finishing this thing and we all know how tough that wait is.

Any other suggestions or does it sound like I'm on the right track?


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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 11:26 am 
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Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 3:51 pm
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First name: Chris
Last Name: Ensor
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State: Missouri
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My 2 cents- If I were in your shoes I would go with option 1. Just be careful that your drill bit doesn't drift on you and ruin the finish and your plan.

On a funny side note, I have heard of people using white out on dark binding after the guitar is complete..... laughing6-hehe Whatever works I guess.

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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 11:30 am 
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First name: Tom
Last Name: West
State: Nova Scotia
Country: Canada
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Darrel : Think I would be inclined to use black dots rather then abalone for contrast reasons. But that is just me.Good luck.
Tom

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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 1:28 pm 
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Koa
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Location: Calgary, Canada
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Thanks guys. I'll be trying option 1 with a respray as my fallback ;) This one's for my sister so though I know she's anxious to get it, a couple of more weeks won't kill her if I have to respray.

Tom, I picked out the darker abalone dots for the contrast reason you point out. Should be pretty good. It also has fret markers, so I won't put up with any excuses from her saying it affects her playing :D


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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 7:34 pm 
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First name: Tom
Last Name: West
State: Nova Scotia
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Darrel : Got ya,right on.
Tom

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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 4:06 pm 
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Koa
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Location: United States
First name: Stephen
Last Name: Ziegenfuss
City: Jackson
State: MI
Zip/Postal Code: 49203
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
I have had this happen as well:

Here is how I made it a perfect transition;

go to your drill index and select a bit approximately 0.003 to 0.007" undersized from your dot inlay (whatever that may be)

using a pointed thingy (a sharp metal object), press in and indent where each dot is supposed to go.

Drill accordingly, depth is not that much of a concern, as long as each pocket is deeper than the inlays. If you can do this on a press, that is better than using a gun - the main point is that the drill bit needs to be spinning quickly as it contacts the finish and wood, because you need a very nice clean hole with no tear out.

put a small quantity of white glue in each hole

using the flat surface of a razor blade, press the inlays in flush with the finish surface.

gently wipe off the residual glue with a rag - with specific attention to NOT pushing the inlay farther into the drilled hole.

That process has saved my forgetful butt a couple of times.

Stephen

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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 5:04 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2007 3:21 pm
Posts: 3446
Location: Alexandria MN
I've been using this to make starter marks for side dots for 6 or 7 years. It's worked great for me.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Speci ... cribe.html?

I usually follow it with the appropriate bit in reverse to set the dimple and then drill the hole. I've always just used a hand drill. If there is not a brad point bit available for the size of marker I usually enlarge the hole slightly with one of those tiny hobby drill bits in a hand chuck so the non-brad point bit won't skip.

I tried jigs, drill presses, etc and just doing it freehand wound up working the best for me.

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PostPosted: Fri May 27, 2011 5:32 pm 
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Koa
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Location: Calgary, Canada
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Thanks for the input guys. Stephen, I tried your method and it worked well. We'll see if it still looks good after I buff things out in a couple of weeks. Thanks again.


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