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When installing side dots, I mark the location and use an awl to start the hole. Sometimes the drill bit drifts away from the target and the dots are not exactly consistent. Would any of you care to share your technique or jig for drilling side dot holes?

Steve

Are you using a brad point bit? That definitely helps.

I do the same thing. I use an awl, actually an ice pick that I ground the tip sharper on, I just make sure the mark is deep enough that the drill bit won't drift out, and I can even use a hand drill for plastic "dot sticks" where depth isn't a huge deal. For MOP or abalone side dots I use a drill press while the neck is still square, after I radius the fretboard and install the frets, before I shape the back of the neck.

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Old growth, shmold growth!

I used a 3/32" Dewalt bit from Lowes. It wasn't exactly a brad point but the label made some claim about the point. I should look around for a true brad point bit.

I really only had one hole that had to be filled and drilled again. I think maybe the wood grain may have pulled it off course. That's why I was asking to see if someone is using some sort of fixture to drill.

Can't remember who's tip this was originally (Todd Stock?), but you can take a short length of aluminum angle (1 x 1 x 1/8 or 1/16" or something like that) and drill a hole at the right location. Then all you have to do is clamp the angle to your finger board and use it as a drill guide. It helps to have some sandpaper stuck to the inside of the angle to keep things from sliding around. Obviously this has to be done before you attach it to the neck.

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Jonathan Kendall, Siloam Springs AR

Hopefully Todd will weigh-in on how he does this.

Marc

I don't pre mark my holes. I have found an awl is just as likely to deflect on hard grain line than a small drill bit and it introduces another potential source of error. I use a fence on my drill press to centre the hole edge to edge, and line up the centre between the fret slots, using the drill bit and the fret marker by eye. Once I am happy I very lightly bring the drill down and just give it 5 or 10 seconds to start a mark and then just drill through. If I see the bit deflecting at the start I lighten up the pressure. Once I see a little tiny countersink from the drill tip it usually goes in straight. I get very consistent lines looking down the fretboard this way which to me is the critical alignment and its pretty quick and easy.
Cheers
Dom

I mark with an awl, then pre-drill with a hand held twist drill bit while under my visor so I can watch closely. Once I get the pilot holes in the right place, i drill to the final size using a brad point bit.

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Jim Hansen

I just use a little hand drill. Not even one with gears or anything either.......

I use this little jig. The piece that rests on the fretboard has a curve slightly tighter than the fretboard radius and extends most of the way across the width of the fretboard. The piece with the guide hole is rosewood. I eyeball the position between the frets.

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

Fascinating how many different methods there are for the same simple task. I do a lot of after- market dots, so that probably has influenced my method: Measure between frets, divide by two, and scribe from each fret (brackets the errors). Measure fingerboard thickness at several points, and determine a progression that will look centered, and inline, and allow for future fingerboard planing. Mark positions with fine point awl. Define marks with sharp center-punch. Start holes by hand with undersize bit. Inspect results. Enlarge holes. glue in markers with low viscosity super glue. Level with chisel, then sandpaper. Touch up with French polish.

I use a fence on the drill press and drill the fretboard before glued to the neck. Measure between frets and mark location with a pencil. Set fence at proper distance from the bottom of the fretboard. Place drill bit in the chuck as far as possible just leaving enough to drill hole. This stops the bit from bending and drifting off center.

Chuck

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Pat, that's beautiful! That's what I love about your technique posts...always simple, elegant in their simplicity, and EFFECTIVE~!

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http://www.presnallguitars.com

I cheat and use my milling machine . Using an awl really helps if you are free handing . Also for some design feature I have used colored pencil lead from artist supply shops. There are so many ways to make your guitar different .

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

Good thread! I've used all the methods, jigs, drill press, etc. and eventually went back to using a small sharp awl to make a good solid mark ( http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Inlay,_pear ... cribe.html ) and drilling by hand with a brad point bit. It actually goes pretty fast.

I usually do it after the board is on the neck and leveled. BTW that awl is great for any precision marking prior to drilling (end pins etc.)

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

I use the drill press fence and reference the back of the board. I have tried other methods, but find this works best for me.

I do mine oin th drill press with a fence setup - beofre the board is radiused or glued to the neck blank. Measure out the spots, takes about 2 mintues, then predrill the holes with a 1/16 inch, 1/4 shank, carbide router bit on the drill press - it doesnt bend, wobble or follow grain lines - then use those holes with the 2mm drill bit for shell dots, without changing the fence setup (obviously).

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

I do it just as Chuck B suggested. This next comment seems obvious, but remember to press the flat surface of the fingerboard to your fence. Put shims, cut-offs, etc. underneath your tapered board to keep the drilling surface perpendicular to your bit. Make sure your board is carefully pressed against the fence before lowering your bit. Tiny bores at a time. Back out, clear chips, etc. Choke up on the bit as Chuck says, too (put it as far into the chuck as it will go). Consider a special bit for this purpose--you can cut off a lot of the shank so that only a small length of bit remains below the jaws of your chuck. Marry that bit to a fence no taller than your shimmed fingerboard and you will be okay.

You don't need pre-marked awl holes (but you can work with them if need be.) Awls and punches often drift with the grain, as has been noted by other respondents.

If you're like me, you DO need to mark the side of your fingerboard with tape or pencil or whatever, so you know it's okay to drill one hole centered HERE, two holes centered THERE, etc. etc. etc. etc.

Patrick