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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 12:06 am 
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Walnut
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 5:42 pm
Posts: 35
First name: Jerry
Last Name: Saunders
City: Houston
State: Tx
Zip/Postal Code: 77098
Country: Usa
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Hello Everybody,

First off, thanks for taking the time to share your trials, tribulations, and guitar building knowledge on this board as I am sure it will become an indispensable resource for me on my first build. A little about me - I'm Jerry and I am from Texas. I like to make sure I'm 100% sure of what I am going to do before embarking on any project and I want this one to be no different. It has always been a dream of mine to build my own guitar so I don't want to be disappointed with my first one (although there will be more from what I understand.)

I am in the "designing" phase right now and would like to tell you guys what my plans are, then I will follow up with a few questions and hopefully a few of you can shed some light on a few of the answers for me.

I am wanting to build a 7 string. Hopefully this isn't too ambitious for my first build. Specs are as follows.

Scale length: 26"
Frets: 24
Body shape: rg style with a bit of a carved top and a different neck joint contour.
Neck to body joint: set neck
Bridge: hipshot .125
Neck angle: 0 if at all possible
Materials: maple body w figured walnut top. 5 piece neck with two strips of walnut and 3 strips of maple. Possibly some very thin ebony strips on either side of the walnut.

I still need to figure a few more things but I have a few questions regarding what I have so far whose answers would really help me sketch out a full scale plan.

1) scale length. I understand scale length as basically the length of the string on the guitar meaning length from edge of the nut to the point where the string crosses the saddle. If this is correct should the bridge be mounted so that the 26 inches are right at the middle point of or the two extremes of the adjustment length of the saddle? For example if the saddle at it's rearmost position is 0 and it's forward most position is 10, should it be mounted so that the string crosses in the middle at value 5 or is there another way to do it? Any clarification would help.

2) frets. I want 24 full frets. I understand there is almost always overhang after the last fret. Is this length just for aesthetic purposes or does it serve a functional purpose? Is it recommended to be no less than a certain length?

3. Neck angle. Since I am requiring 0 neck angle and using the hipshot bridge is it recommended to have the fretboard flat with the top laminate or is it better to have the neck pocket a bit shallower so the fretboard is just a bit higher than the surface of the body? The bridge has it's minimum string level at .30" above the body and maximum at .46" above the body.

Sorry if some of these are stupid questions. I have read a lot about the process but just need a little clarification/guidance. I'd rather mess up on the actual work than have a design flaw that would make this guitar unplayable no matter how good the craftwork is.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thank you so much If you've made it this far.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 1:41 am 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Thu Oct 09, 2008 11:27 pm
Posts: 313
Location: McKinney, TX
First name: David
Last Name: Morris
City: McKinney
State: TX
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
TheIllicitOne wrote:
1) scale length. I understand scale length as basically the length of the string on the guitar meaning length from edge of the nut to the point where the string crosses the saddle. If this is correct should the bridge be mounted so that the 26 inches are right at the middle point of or the two extremes of the adjustment length of the saddle? For example if the saddle at it's rearmost position is 0 and it's forward most position is 10, should it be mounted so that the string crosses in the middle at value 5 or is there another way to do it? Any clarification would help.

2) frets. I want 24 full frets. I understand there is almost always overhang after the last fret. Is this length just for aesthetic purposes or does it serve a functional purpose? Is it recommended to be no less than a certain length?

3. Neck angle. Since I am requiring 0 neck angle and using the hipshot bridge is it recommended to have the fretboard flat with the top laminate or is it better to have the neck pocket a bit shallower so the fretboard is just a bit higher than the surface of the body? The bridge has it's minimum string level at .30" above the body and maximum at .46" above the body.

Sorry if some of these are stupid questions. I have read a lot about the process but just need a little clarification/guidance. I'd rather mess up on the actual work than have a design flaw that would make this guitar unplayable no matter how good the craftwork is.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thank you so much If you've made it this far.

Welcome! I'll be the first to say that you're more likely to get solid answers on something like this in the electric guitar forum, but I'll take a shot and let others add as they may.

1.) To determine bridge placement, measure from the nut to the 12th fret. Then measure from the 12th fret to the saddles, with the saddles fully extended. most strings will actually require slightly more than the scale length.

2.) That overhang holds the 24th fret in place. It needs to be long enough not to break off.

3.) Adjustable saddles give some room for error. You probably want your fretboard slightly higher than the top laminate. Look at any of your other guitars. You'll get the idea. For something like this, it always helps to draw the guitar full scale before tearing into wood.

Also, consider this book, which is great for electric guitar builds:

http://www.amazon.com/Make-Your-Own-Ele ... 0953104907

Regarding a seven string, it's not really any harder than a six string. You just have to think through the geometry. Again, a full scale model helps.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 8:01 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 7:51 am
Posts: 3786
Location: Canada
If you have no neck angle, and the bridge at its lowest point is .3 above the top, then the lie of the fret tops has to be almost that high as well - I would only have it say 50-60 thou lower at most. Its easy to raise saddles up - down is a little tougher when they are already as low as they can go !!!

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www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 8:19 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 7:52 am
Posts: 4524
First name: Big
Last Name: Jim
State: Deep in the heart of Bluegrass
Country: usa
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
welcome , look forward to seeing your work. [:Y:]

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