Official Luthiers Forum!

I have been a fan of Z-poxy filler since guitar #4 but #13 is Black Limba and I was a little concerned with the amber cast that I thought would change the Limba too much. I decided to try the system 3 clear coat as it was available at Woodcraft and love the results, except the 24 hour cure time. I was a little nervous as the 1st coat was taking forever to set up, but my shop is cool ( 65F ), I decided to bring the guitar to a warmer place and things got better. It took 4 applications with sanding back to wood on the 1st 2 to get a good fill so next time I will get some of the thickener for the 1st coat. Other than taking a whole week instead of 3 days with Z-poxy it is a great product and is quite clear in the surface of the wood.

I am a creature of habit and tend to stick with what has worked for me, but am glad I tried this. I will probably stick with Z-poxy for necks as I like how it colors the mahogany but will use the system 3 on the back and sides from now on.

Fred

_________________
Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

That's interesting, Fred. I have used both Z-poxy and System 3 and haven't noticed a difference in cure time, although I use the SB 112 rather than the Clear Coat. Maybe that's the difference. One thing about the System 3 is it's very finicky about mix ratio.

+1 on SB112. I add the silica filler as well.

_________________
Brian

You never know what you are capable of until you actually try.

https://www.howardguitarsdelaware.com/

No issue with mix, I use my gram scale for either product. I can sand Z-poxy 8 to 10 hours after coating. I was not able to get the sb112 product so went with the clear coat. I like the fact that it is a lower viscosity than Z-poxy for the later coats it does not need to be thinned, and will get some silica thickener for the next time I use it.

_________________
Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

Fred I`ve always had to do 4 coats no matter what I`ve used.That`s why I use ca mow.You can do the whole deal in a day if you want to.
I`ve never tried system 3 ,but have heard good things. James

_________________
James W Bolan
Nashville Tennessee

I would try CA James but I have developed a sensitivity to it. It could be I have been using it for close to 40 years, both at work, in my model airplane adventures and now guitar building.

_________________
Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

I've been using System 3 as well. Mostly the SB 112. 3 to 4 coats usually.

Use a heat gun (hair drier) to warm it up before you pour... It helps bring the bubbles out... and... makes sure it cures in a cold basement.... You can warm up the wood too a bit to help it flow into the pores better...

Thanks.

FWIW - a method I've found really effective is to put the first coat of epoxy on fairly thick, then give it 30 minutes or so to soak into the pores, and begin to gel. Once it's about the viscosity of cold honey, scrape it off with a fresh single edged razor with the corners rounded over, wiping the excess off the razor after each swipe. It leaves a very thin, smooth coat and no unfilled pores. Sanding back is pretty easy. I finish off with a wash coat of epoxy thinned with DNA to cover any sand-throughs.

Recently I experimented with thinning the wash coat 60% - 70% with DNA and wiping it on with a paper towel. The alcohol flashed off in seconds and left a very, very thin, glossy coat of epoxy that, as far as I can tell, cured just fine. I was using Z-poxy, not S3. I'm no expert with epoxy so I can't say with any certainty there won't be any problems down the line, but the final epoxy film is so micro thin, and cured so hard, I really doubt it would cause any problems under finish.

I get by with 2 coats of SB112 with the silica added. Never used Z-poxy, but system 3 needs a 24 hr cure. First coat goes on thick. Wait about 4-6 hrs. until it is good and solid but still soft and scrape back with a regular scraper. Let cure for the rest of the 24 hrs. Apply second coat, let cure fully and sand to prep for finish.

_________________
Brian

You never know what you are capable of until you actually try.

https://www.howardguitarsdelaware.com/

Brian do you think that would work with some of the more porous rosewoods? If so I might give it a try.
James

_________________
James W Bolan
Nashville Tennessee

This EIR was done that way, and this isn't even completely finished yet. Two coats like I said, no more pores.

_________________
Brian

You never know what you are capable of until you actually try.

https://www.howardguitarsdelaware.com/