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I started spraying my Granadillo / Red Spruce dread this week, and I have noticed light areas where I've left thin skims of Titebond (not at all visible after sanding and scraping) around the binding. These spots are not present where I used CA glue. Are these spots just from the glue slowing down oxidation, or is it a reaction between the lacquer ( Mohawk Piano Nitro) and the glue (I really doubt if this is the case)? If it is due to oxidation, will the spots eventually blend in? How long does that usually take if it is sitting out in the shop?

Problem: Not scraping the Titebond off
Solution: Scrape the Titebond off.

Sorry, but that's how it is.

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Trevor Gore, Luthier. Australian hand made acoustic guitars, classical guitars; custom guitar design and build; guitar design instruction.

http://www.goreguitars.com.au

Well... I did scrape and sand until it wasn't visible, but apparently there was an extremely thin skim of glue (now I'm not sure if it was the Titebond or Duco cement). It is already starting to blend a bit, so I'm thinking it will be alright. This set can go from pink when freshly sanded to red in just a couple of days. Trevor, did you learn this from experience?

Thanks,
Nathan

Yes, sadly. On EIR. Shows up as light grey and gets more obvious (or the observer gets more sensitive!). Can be very hard to see before finishing. It's the odd drips away from the bindings that can jump out and grab you, because you tend not to scrape so much in those places. I don't know any easy/simple solutions or avoidance strategies. Just work clean and inspect closely.

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Trevor Gore, Luthier. Australian hand made acoustic guitars, classical guitars; custom guitar design and build; guitar design instruction.

http://www.goreguitars.com.au

if you dampen the surface with water you can see where the glue spots are.

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

The streaks or drips shows up early in the finishing schedule. For me, after the first application of zpoxy for pore filling. At that point I scrape it off.

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http://www.Harvestmoonguitars.com

I go over the wood with a naptha soaked rag before filling the pores and these spots show up and can be sanded/scraped off. If by chance one gets by you, the little stain touch up pens minwax makes will blend them into the surrounding wood under the finish, though finding them early and removing is best.

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

I forgot to mention that a solution to this problem used by some of the factories is to add a fluorescent dye to the glue. Any residual shows up strongly under UV light inspection.

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Trevor Gore, Luthier. Australian hand made acoustic guitars, classical guitars; custom guitar design and build; guitar design instruction.

http://www.goreguitars.com.au

Titebond without any dye added will still show under UV lighting. Duco does not show under lacquer. It is one reason I like using it, particularly on wood rosettes.

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John