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Bill Higgs
 Post subject: Defects in Burl
PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2012 7:19 pm 
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I am getting ready to use some Tamanian Myrtle Burl for rosettes and headplates. Can I just fill the defects (through and through, see photo) with thin cyanoacrylate glue? Does it need to be mixed with the wood dust? Is there a better idea?
Thanks,
Bill


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Bill Higgs
 Post subject: Re: Defects in Burl
PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2012 10:03 pm 
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Thanks Filippo.

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Eric Reid
 Post subject: Re: Defects in Burl
PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2012 1:29 am 
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You may want the larger voids to be filled with some thing a little darker than the sanding dust from that piece. You could try dust from some other woods, wetted with CA, to match the darker red brown around the voids. I like to fill the void with thick CA, then pack lots of dust into the CA, blow off the extra dust then follow with thin CA. I usually get a little better saturation and adhesion this way. Some dusts wet more easily than others. Rosewood dust makes the CA kick off pretty quick.
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James Ringelspaugh
 Post subject: Re: Defects in Burl
PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2012 10:15 am 
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you might try black CA from Stew-Mac or some such... clear CA will show any bubbles/voids or irregularities.
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Goodin
 Post subject: Re: Defects in Burl
PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2012 11:12 am 
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lex_luthier wrote:
you might try black CA from Stew-Mac or some such... clear CA will show any bubbles/voids or irregularities.


Stew Mac also makes amber CA glue. You may have to re-fill a few times over a few days as the glue hardens and shrinks.
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AlBDarned
 Post subject: Re: Defects in Burl
PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2012 12:38 pm 
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lacquer sticks can be fun too:)

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Kevin Waldron
 Post subject: Re: Defects in Burl
PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2012 3:52 pm 
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My solution is a little different. We don't like CA personally for long term fills.

Typically would use a zip lock bag........ fill to whatever volume you think you will need with a two part epoxy add fine dust..stain..... even fiberglass..... mix this all in the zip lock bag by rubbing backwards and forwards etc. Snip corner...... squeeze over area to fill...... place shop vacuum on the back side of item..... turn on.......... pull glue through voids...... use as much as necessary when it appears filled use wax paper on bottom side and sit part on flat surface and use remainder to over fill top....... let set until dry. Then normal sand etc. ( usually there is no shrinkage by doing it this way )

We have knots holes in furniture that have been filled this way for over 40 years that are still solid and unchanged.

God Bless.

Kevin
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