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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 10:47 am 
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Cocobolo
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If you take an angle finder and get the angle from the top to the neck block and then use the complimentary angle for your neck, that will work, won't it?


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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 12:19 pm 
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Yes, assuming the angle from the top down the neckblock is what you need for correct action at the bridge.

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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 1:25 pm 
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You have to assume that in any system, don't you?


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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 2:16 pm 
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In my world, the only thing that matters is that the plane of the top is such that you end up with the string height you want. That is primary and everything should be made to fit. I wouldn't assume anything about the string height based on the angle of the heel.

If the plane of the top is off, something needs to be adjusted. Some common methods for doing that are removing material from the upper bout of the top itself (provided you have enough thickness), making a slight taper on the fingerboard extension, or making a wedged shim for the fingerboard extension.

This assumes conventional construction where the goal is to glue the fingerboard extension to the top. It is that plane that has to project to the correct string height (which typically means a line projected from the top of the frets comes out a bit above the bridge).

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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 5:03 pm 
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Hupaand wrote:
You have to assume that in any system, don't you?


Beware if you are assuming the neck angle will be correct without determining the correct set to make it all work.

As Kent said, everything you do on the neckblock/top/neck interface has to be with the intent of making the neck angle correct for proper string height over the bridge. (and keeping everything on the centerline of course)

How far along are you? Top and back on?

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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 5:44 pm 
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Hugh

This is the point you need to work for:

Temporarily install the neck a with Fretted fingerboard. Lay a straight edge down the center of the fingerboard. Measure the air space between the straight edge and the soundboard where the saddle will be. You should have enough room for the planned bridge (mine are 5/16 – 3/8”) plus no more than 1/16” and no less than 1/64.

If you don’t have the fret board ready just measure down the neck and calculate what it will be with your fret board and frets in place.

If you haven’t got the end of the neck ready yet then I would start by laying a straight edge against the top flush against the area the fret board will lay. (first 5” or so) Then measure at the saddle and calculate if the clearance will be right.

If it is, do as you said, cut the neck on the angle that will continue the plane your straight edge is on.

Cut it, temp install it, check it and if need be cut again. Remember to keep the center of the neck and center of the guitar lined up.

Good luck

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