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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 5:08 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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If so, how long does it need to cure before buffing?


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 5:36 pm 
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Koa
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I've power buffed shellac with a car-type buffer and really fine grit liquid polishes many times. A week or so has been fine. I personally wouldn't try it on a big buffer with aggressive cutting compounds. It melts at a pretty low temp, and I usually have a very thin coating to begin with. In my experience it would take a very very light touch.

Dave


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 6:19 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Yes, use my pedestal buffer with buffing compound, same as for nitro. Works great.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 6:19 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Yes, use my pedestal buffer with buffing compound, same as for nitro. Works great.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 7:41 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Awesome. Jason, how long do you leave it to cure, and how many coats do you spray
Thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 9:31 pm 
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Cocobolo
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I french polish for a month or so, then rest it for a week before buffing.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 11:45 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Is there a reason that you don't spray it?


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 5:10 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Shellac sprays terribly... it doesn't atomize quite right and you really have to strain the shellac before spraying because there are always lumps inside the shellac solution. I sprayed shellac on the Stella restoration because I don't want to take forever french polishing the stuff but I would spray for quick builds, then french polish them afterwards.

I also hate cleaning shellac out of spray guns.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 6:22 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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shellac can be sprayed but you have to have the right tips and thinned properly.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 9:23 am 
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Koa
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meddlingfool wrote:

Post subject: Can shellac be power buffed?

If so, how long does it need to cure before buffing?

Hard shellac, applied with a fad, wait 10 days minimum, then cut and power buff.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 9:26 am 
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Contributing Member
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Trevor Gore wrote:
Hard shellac, applied with a fad, wait 10 days minimum, then cut and power buff.[/attachment]


Looks nice, Trevor! What hard shellac do you use?


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 10:07 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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So exactly what is a "hard shellac"? Is it one of those U Beaut crosslinked shellac?

Since I cannot get them (because its flammable liquid) how do I make them out of shellac flake?

_________________
Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 10:29 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Never buffed shellac,
because I don't have a buffer duh ,
but I did spray it with no problems.
I used a 1 lb cut,
with an old Binks jamb gun,
35 psi,
largest tip for the gun.
It was a pleasure because it dried fast,
and the fumes were not too bad.
Took a month to cure for polishing.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 12:07 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

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Dewaxed shellac from flake was something I was able to spray nicely through the Rockler sprayer. I would like to try it as a complete finish. I can get uv poly done for a reasonable cost, and can do KTM-SV myself for a certain amount of effort, but they both seem to really change the resonance of the box audibly.

With the U-bueat, are the crazing problems gone? It also seems horrendously expensive.

Is shellac in general subject to crazing?

Thanks


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 6:53 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2011 10:45 pm
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First name: Trevor
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City: Sydney
Country: Australia
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CharlieT wrote:
Looks nice, Trevor! What hard shellac do you use?

I use the Shines stuff (probably not availably outside of Sydney), but Robert Rae of Shines is the guy who "invented" the stuff, which was then subsequently marketed by U-beaut. U-beaut initially removed the plasticizer but put it back in, apparently, after the crazing issues. There is also an additive that extends the wet edge time (for furniture makers) which Robert removes for me, because I'm looking for drying speed.

Tai Fu wrote:
So exactly what is a "hard shellac"? Is it one of those U Beaut crosslinked shellac?

Since I cannot get them (because its flammable liquid) how do I make them out of shellac flake?

Sorry, I don't know. However, I suspect the hardening additives are some fairly traditional mixture, e.g. sandarac and a mastic. There is nothing new! But, I could also be completely wrong.

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Trevor Gore, Luthier. Australian hand made acoustic guitars, classical guitars; custom guitar design and build; guitar design instruction.

http://www.goreguitars.com.au


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 9:44 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Is shellac in general subject to crazing?

Thanks[/quote]
Yes. where your forearm hangs over the top, the humidity in your skin will eventually craze it. Also if you try to put too much on in a session and dont wait long enough for it to cure between sessions it will craze. Its not particularly durable.


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