Official Luthiers Forum!

Wondering who makes their own truss rods? I've lately been dissatisfied with all the rods that are available. The one that's closest to what I really want is StewMac's Gibson style rod, but I'm annoyed that the rod itself is under sized. It's interesting to note that the rod is quite a bit undersized even for the thread...well out of spec for a 10-32 thread.

They make another style that's the proper size, but I don't like that beefy anchor at the end. I just don't really see a need for it.

I'm wondering if anyone make a rod by simply taking some drill rod, heating it up and bending over the end? It seems like that would make for the simplest rod possible. No welds to break, no threads to peen...nothing except the threads at the nut. You wouldn't even have to drill a hole for the bend...just let it stick up instead of down. Anyone doing that?

I've always made my own Gibson style trussrods. I get the anchors & brass nuts from Stewmac, and 3/16" x 3' SS rod from HD, which I cut & thread. (Not sure why you feel this is undersized.) I've seen them with a bent over anchor end, but I don't do that.

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Dave
Milton, ON

Sure do. I use 3/16" stainless steel. Heat the end and bend an "L" which gets buried into the heel. The truss rod channel gets routed with a curved bottom (actually it is straight except the upper headstock end curves up about 1/16" starting around the 6th fret. I used to use brass acorn nuts that stew-mac sells, but lately I have been using Fender bullet style nuts and leaving them exposed (no truss rod cover necessary). When getting ready to level the frets, I tighten up the truss rod first to give me some dual adjustment capability in case that is ever required. The benefit is that my necks are lighter.

Their Gibson style rod is .167". They have another single action as you describe which is a full 3/16". I just don't like the anchor at the end. It seems needlessly bulky for the job it has to do.

Interesting. I hadn't thought of using stainless. I was just gong to use some drill rod. I guess I was concerned that heating and bending may not be the best approach, but cold bending will work harden the area which could be even worse. I guess heating and bending works fine, then.

I wonder too if it's necessary to anchor the rod in the heel. Why not just turn it so the L sticks straight up instead of drilling an additional hole? Maybe it's just that no one ever thought of that, or is there a real reason not to do that?

I just did one in a similar fashion. I used 1/16 steel from Home Depot and threaded both ends. I made a semi-circularish steel anchor and tapped threads in. I screwed the anchor on the end and peened over the little bit of extra. I made it adjustable at the soundhole so the anchor is mounted in the nut end. I used a curved slot and it seems to adjust well enough but the adjustment end points up slightly and makes it difficult to get the wrench lined up while working blind. . .

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Bryan Bear PMoMC

Take care of your feet, and your feet will take care of you.

[quote="John Coloccia I wonder too if it's necessary to anchor the rod in the heel. Why not just turn it so the L sticks straight up instead of drilling an additional hole? Maybe it's just that no one ever thought of that, or is there a real reason not to do that?[/quote]
If I was doing the bend, I'd go down & into a hole, to prevent the possibility of a rattle ....might not happen who knows.
The anchor is 7 grams. The 3/16 SS rod is 3.55 g/in. so you might end up 3 or 4 g heavier with the anchor. Not worth the aggrevation IMO.

EDIT Wait a minute....what am I thinking! The rod has to PULL on something. Having an upturn bend just laying in the slot (if I understand you John) doesn't pull on anything! The bend has to captured longitudinally to resist nut tightening.

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Dave
Milton, ON

My thinking is that it would pull on the filler strip. I don't think I've ever seen anyone do it like that, but I can't think of any reason it wouldn't work. It would certainly make for a minimally invasive install.

I'm thining you would rather drill the hole and have the rod pull on the bottom half of the neck. You want the rod tension to compress the fibers below the center of the neck causing it to bow up. I suppose using a curved channel would help, but it seems like you are working against yourself.

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Bryan Bear PMoMC

Take care of your feet, and your feet will take care of you.

An upturned hook on the rod would be pulling on the spline which is glued in, so that should work. But I leave the hook about an inch and one half long cause I'm a belt and suspenders kind of guy.

I sometimes use that type of truss rod, from 5 mm stainless steel, and I use the Gibson style nuts from SM. I usually make acoustic guitars, and bury the end of the rods in the heel as Barry describes, but I once made a SG-style electric with no heel to speak of. To imobilize the right angle bend of the rod, I routed a short rabbet (10 mm?) sideways, (parallel to the frets) at the heel end of the neck instead. It worked fine.

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

LMI offers a truss rod like John is looking for. 3/16 rod with the anchor end bent over. I believe they call it their compression rod. I would also prefer stainless, but it's not offered much probably due to the cost.

I do it just like Barry. I wrap the rod in electric tape up to the threads and wrap the threads with thin white thread tape. I started using the bullet style nut as well because it adjusts with an allen wrench which is much easier to use than a socket wrench.

I forgot to mention what I wrap my rods with. I use heat shrink tubing from an electrical supply house.