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I bent some figured maple binding and did pretty well, but I did crack one piece. (Seems like a minor crack if there is such a thing...) I have completed 7 flat tops. For the first ones I used used plastic binding. For my last one I bent ebony binding and had no problem using the procedure described below.

I want to make sure I'm using the right procedure. Any comments or suggestions are welcome.

I used SuperSoft II, put them in aluminum foil, and let them sit for about 24 hours. I took them out of the foil, wiped off the remaining Supersoft, "spritzed" the binding lightly with water, and them wrapped them up back into the foil before bending them on the bender. I went up to about 280 degrees and then started bending. I was afraid that I might be burning the binding because it seemed like smoke was coming out (...but no burning occurred). I completed the bend and turned off the blanket. After it cooled to about 120, I turned the heat back up to about 225, then unplugged the blanket.

After letting the binding cool for a few minutes (temp. of about 120) I took them out of the bender and I immediately unrapped them and used clamps and rubber bands to "bind" them onto the bending form. (I think this is when the crack occurred.) They will stay there until I'm ready to bind the guitar.

Should I have left the binding in the bender over night? Is it not wise to remove the binding too soon? ...and the main question...

Can I use the piece that's cracked?

Thanks,
Steve

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

I would be surprised if everyone didn't break a piece of binding now and then. I just broke a piece of quilted bubinga binding getting it out of the bending form. It happens (at least to me). If it's only a crack and it was dark wood, I might be tempted to use it. On a light wood you will see the crack. Depends on how much that will bother you. Personally, I would make up another piece of binding (as I did for the bubinga that broke).

Pat

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There are three kinds of people:

Those that make things happen,
those that watch things happen,
and those that wondered what happened.

I broke a piece of madagascar RW one time, it broke thru a little tiny knot!

I just continues the binding at the break, which resulted in a small black line from the CA glue, hardly noticeable.

On maple, it might be a bit more noticeable, but I'd roll with it, put it on the lower bout.

Leave them in the bender until close to room temp. A second heating in the bender can help set the bend but I usually take them out and touch up by hand if needed.

As for the crack, if it's on the outside, you may be able to fix it but the only reason to do it is if you don't have more that matches.

As for a fix, with maple, you need to use hide or fish glue to keep the glue line from showing. I'm assuming that, since it cracked, it's under-bent and either needs to be touched up on a hot pipe or put under some tension while gluing in place. Either of those will likely pop the glue joint. So.... glue the crack together and at the same time, glue a thin layer of veneer to the outside of the bend. This will reinforce it until you get it glued in place. Then just trim off the veneer.

But if you have more matching binding, it's probably better to bend another piece.

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http://www.chassonguitars.com