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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 6:28 pm 
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Koa
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I'm in the process of installing the tuning machines on my latest. In the case of the tuning machine that is closest to the nut, the lug that takes the little screw is starting to go up the rise of the volute. As a result, I can't get the tuning machine to seat in far enough. So I guess I'm either going to have to drill out a spot so the lug can go below the surface of the wood or try to bend the lug up to match the curve of the volute. I'm using Gotoh 510 tuners. Has anyone tried this so they could tell me if bending the lug is possible or is it likely I will just break the lug in trying to bend it. In the absence of experience, I'm leaning towards making a little pocket in the wood.

Thanks,
Pat

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 6:54 pm 
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Don't try to bend the lug Pat, you're not going to be happy.
Why not pull out a file and shape the back of the lug, I aviod tools on lacquer whenever I can.

Steve


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 6:57 pm 
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Koa
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Pat, most of the 510 tuners that are easily available have the lug on the side (Gotoh #SGL510) but they do a version with the lug central on the bottom (Gotoh # SGV510). That might work for you. The problem is getting them. I went direct to Gotoh (Hosco) when I last got some, but am currently out of stock of those. You might be able to get SG301's (18:1 and a great machine, central lug) and swap the button, which may need a longer button screw, but the screws are available from LMII.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 7:43 pm 
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I almost had that problem the first time I did a smile volute, but discovered it before finish and corrected the problem. I now make sure there is enough flat area, if a quarter will lay flat in the area around where the tuner will be located you are safe.

Fred

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 7:59 pm 
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Fred Tellier wrote:
I almost had that problem the first time I did a smile volute, but discovered it before finish and corrected the problem. I now make sure there is enough flat area, if a quarter will lay flat in the area around where the tuner will be located you are safe.

Fred


Almost did that on the last one I did too.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 8:19 pm 
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I had that problem once too and I just filled a little off of the lug until it sat flush with the surface, it didn't take much in my case.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 10:36 pm 
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I've almost done this before as well and I was aware of the need for enough flat area but I just wasn't careful enough. I thought I had left a similar distance to the start of the volute as I had on other head shapes but apparently not.

The tuning machine actually has about a millimeter to go to be seated. So there's too much to simply file away at the bottom of the lug. I think if I use the right size drill bit I could make a little pit into which the lug would fit pretty tight. I have to think about what would be more noticeable - a 1 mm gap under the tuning machine or a countersunk lug. Also, currently the post on the other side naturally does not come up as high as all the other posts.

I'm open to any further suggestions...

Pat

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 12:34 am 
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Pat,

How about using some Grover tuners (with shorter lugs that will be further away from the volute area) for this one and try not to do it again!?

Cheers,
Dave F.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 4:39 am 
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Or get a lug-less tuner (pin indexed) of some sort?

I notice most people make their volutes too deep/too big. I know I certainly did, but didn't get into much trouble because of the shape of most of my headstocks (flared out, not the Martin style which has tuners relatively close to the nut). You don't need much for a positive thumb stop, and as my design tastes evolve I find smaller is better.

My examples. Too big:
Image

Just Right:
Image

(after smoothing the bit on the neck a little further)


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 12:08 pm 
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Thanks for the replies everyone. I've solved the problem but first...

I could have looked around for different machines with a different lug configuration (Dave, I did check the Grover's you linked but according to the specs, they seem even a little bigger than the Gotoh's so I'm not seeing how they would have worked) but this is an eight string guitar so the set of tuners were a special order from Shane. Also, I'm not the most patient of people and the thought of waiting a few weeks to finish off this guitar was enough motivation to try something.

In the end I decided as a first step to try a little more pressure to seat the machine. So I got a couple of small blocks of wood, some cork for padding and a clamp and very carefully tightened. To my delight, without too much turning of the clamp, the machine seated. There is a small dimple where the lug is pressing into the finish, but not much at all. I doubt anyone would notice unless I pointed it out. The only other collateral "damage" is that the Gotoh name plate on the back of the tuner recessed from the cork pressing on it. These name plates do that - I've done it a couple of times before with my thumb when I'm just installing the tuning machines. So now I'm trying to decide if I should leave it with one name plate recessed and the other seven flush or press all the other ones in so they match. Unless...has anyone come up with an easy way to un-recess these name plates?

Pat

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those that watch things happen,
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 1:21 pm 
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I have seen the nameplate recess like yours. I just pushed the other ones in to match. Not noticeable at all, IMO.


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