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I want to route a shape and a long line into a fretboard. I am familiar with using a template with a large router bit that has a collar on the top or bottom of the bit. But I am looking at these small bits (1/16") and they don't seem to make them with collars. I don't understand how these small bits ride against the template. Can someone help my ignorance ?

Thanks.

I dont use a template for small bits. I don't know of anyone that does.

This is a case where you might want to use something like the Pantograph Duplicator (recent thread). This assumes you already have the inlay material to make the mold. Essentially, you are making a pin router.

Another option is to use the router base that John Hall sells for the dremel or the Souix Pencil Grinder, and freehand it (or develop a guide)

Does this help?

Mike

Zekem,
So do you just scribe the line with a knife, then carefully approach the line with the router ?

If I want to cut out a letter 'S', in which I will lay a veneer strip on it's side, I am going to have to just free hand it with a knife.
Correct ?


Mike,
I probably don't want to build or buy a duplicator for this.
I once inlaid an S shaped sound hole by hand. It went ok.
Looks like I need to free hand this.

Thanks.

Freehanding with a router can be tricky. One reason to go with John's base (Blues Creek Guitars). Also, 1/16" may be a bit big. Consider 1/32 or a little bit bigger with 1 mm. It just depends on the detail. Oh, and practice practice before you commit to your expensive wood. This would include doing the inlay so you can spot problems.

Some will say (correctly) that the dremel has too much bearing runout for detailed work, so consider that as well.

What kind of router do you have?

I would have it drawn on a piece of paper so I have something to go by and I would tape or glue the paper to the surface and scribe around with an exacto knife. Then carefully route the slot.

For the line part, you could run the router base up against a straightedge.

For inlays, I glue down the inlay with a spot of CA, I scribe the pattern into the into the wood with a sharp scribe, then hit the CA with acetone to remove the inlay. I rub chalk into the scribe line, then remove the surrounding chalk, to get an easy-to-see border. Then I route out to the edges until the chalk juuuuuust disappears. If your scribe lines are accurate and thin, you'll have a pattern slightly larger than the inlay. Old school, but it works pretty well for me and other CNC-challenged builders.

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

If I were to want to do something like this, I would approach it like so. I would first get a 1/16 diameter cutting end mill with an 1/8 shank. Then I would get a conversion collet insert that would allow me to use the 1/8 shaft in my router. Then I would get a collar for the router base. Lets say 1/4" OD. Then I would draw out my "S" on a piece of mdf or whatever. Make sure to draw it to size. Then I would use this "S" line as a center line for my jig. I would mark 1/8 for each side of the "S" all the way around. Then use whatever devise you have to cut out the now 1/4 wide "S". Then take your router with the 1/4" collar and the converted 1/8 end mill/ router bit, set the depth and route away.


This is assuming you want to make a fine "S" that is a 1/16 wide.

Mike,
I have a normal size (big for inlay work) Bosch router.
I would buy a small one or dremel if it would help.

ZekeM,
Yes that is my plan. So you do scribe the shape with a knife.

Pat,
Thanks for the chalk idea, I have been using pencil markings, which are only visible from certain angles.
So you do carefully free hand with the router.

I would go with a dremel with a base like the one stew Mac has. That would give you a decent inlay setup

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

Go to Bluescreekguitars.com and look at the Dremel and base. I prefer the pneumatic solution. Low bearing runout. But that requires a compressor with a good air dryer. Dremel setup is cheaper. But again, not as good. The smaller the router, the better control you will have.

Actually I've always wanted a foredom with the base from stew mac. It is just a little too much money for my 2-3 guitar a year production pace.

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust