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I am close to finishing my first guitar. It has a bolt on neck. I think my neck angle is good (10mm or .400 inches at the bridge position fretted) but I am still worried about it. I still have to attach the bridge, neck, fretwork, and setup. There are 2 ways I see to proceed.

1) Glue down the bridge. With the neck just bolted on, rough in the nut and saddle. Check the neck angle and adjust if needed. Then finish up.

Or should I just

2) Attach the neck, glue down the fretboard extension. Complete fretwork. Attach the bridge, setup, and play it.

Thanks,

EddieLee

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EddieLee

With a bolt-on neck, the prudent way is #1. Gluing the FB extension should not change the geometry.
The only problem is that if your neck is angled too far back, it may need to be shortened slightly. That can affect the saddle position. But from the 10mm measurement you gave, that should not be an issue.

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John

I don't think you'd want to glue the bridge if the finish is not on the guitar yet, that would make it very difficult to get a good finish later. I have used bolt on necks for 8 years and do it a lot like Todd except I fret before finish. (That could change)

Bolt your neck on and if you are gluing the extension you can use a couple of those little Irwin mini bar clamps to clamp the extension to the top through the soundhole. Then, assuming the frets are in, support the headstock and put 6lbs of weight on each shoulder of the upper bout to roughly mimic string tension. (make sure the truss rod is adjusted for the relief you want) Position your bridge and check the clearance over the plane of the frets with your straight edge. That should tell you if you are going to be in the ball park strung up. It also gives you an idea of the drop off (or rise) you will see in the extension strung up. The bridge will come up a little strung up and it'll settle a bit early in life so be sure there is at least a 32nd or so of clearance.

As Todd alluded to, there is a lot to be said for having a dummy bridge that is the thickness you are shooting for but not making the real one until the very last so you can fine tune the thickness if needed. I have not done that yet but I think I will.

One of the joys of a double tenon neck is that you can bolt it on exactly as it will be at the final fitting to check things.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Thanks to all for the great comments. This forum members have been a great help through this process.

How do you determine the correct neck angle? With the frets almost leveled, I am 10mm over the top at the bridge position. Extending a ruler over a 20 mil piece of veneer on the 1st fret and a 93 mil piece of wood at the 12th, I am coming in at .517 inches over the bridge position. I have made a bridge (but I could make another) that is .347 inches tall. That would leave .170 inches for my saddle. If the top bulges a bit with the strings on, that will puts the saddle height at .150 inches. So I think the neck is at the correct angle. Please let me know I my reasoning is incorrect.

The guitar has a beautiful Joe White finish on it and the neck heel has been flossed for a tight fit.

I am open to more suggestions, But I think I will proceed as Todd suggests. If the neck angle changes after the fretboard extension is glued down and the final fret work is done, I will adjust the bridge to compensate. Then locate and attach the bridge. Nut, saddle and setup to follow.

Does that sound like a plan. So far so good on the build. I am just nervous about these last steps.

EddieLee

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EddieLee

Terence - how do you support the headstock?

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EddieLee

I found this old picture from a few years ago. My wife is an antique dealer and has a ton of those old irons people used to heat up and iron clothes. I found two that weighed 5 lbs and added weight as needed. The 1lb weights in the picture are traction weights from the hospital I used to work at! I usually use the Stew Mac neck support but you could use a block of wood that's padded. It appears I was leveling frets under simulated string tension in this picture.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Terence - Ahhh now I see. I like that!

Thanks,

EddieLee

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EddieLee

You're getting advice from guys that have a lot more under their belt than me but........ on my last one It struck me that it would be a little more logical to glue the bridge down first. I fret first and then finish the neck. Once the bridge is glued, if you use a bolt on neck, you can attach the neck and string it up. You could even do some fret leveling if need be. Once it's stung up you can see exactly what's happening. Hopefully you have nailed the neck angle, but if not it's pretty easy to change it a bit at this point. I can see how you could take a little off the bridge but how would you add? For me, as I build lighter and lighter it's harder to factor in how much rise you will get in the top. This should tend to give you a realistic view help with the outcome you are trying to achieve.

Just another approach but I'm going to use it again.

Happy Building,
Danny