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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 6:04 pm 
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Nice one!


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 7:16 pm 
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That's an excellent method as well^^^

Actually, it's a much more stable way to do it. Next time I'm at a hobby shop I'll pick up some of that thin ply. The tape method makes me nervous every time I put it through the drum sander. I'm always worried the tape will release or some other catastrophe will occur and the rosette will get shredded.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 8:19 am 
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Tony_in_NYC wrote:
Casey,
Perhaps in my single days...

Larry,
I glue up the tiles on wax paper. I added a black purfling line between each tile to keep it interesting. Once the rosette is ready to be cut, I put double stick tape on the back, run it through the drum sander to clean it up, then route it into a circle. Sometimes I need to reapply the double stick tape, but usually it makes it from drum sander to router with no issues. Then I use a piece of fishing line to separate it from the backer board. Drag the line under the rosette and off it pops. A safety razor blade removes the remaining tape. And, Presto! Rosette ring in one piece. And there was much rejoicing.


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Hey Tony,

Nice project you got going here - a good thing and good on ya for doing it. [:Y:]

Next time you're doing a rosette try putting Naptha on the the double stick and gently slide a putty knife or thin spatula underneath - the rosette will come loose very easy with no prying needed. The Naptha won't hurt the rosette and will evaporate very quickly (even quicker with gentle application of compressed air).

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 7:18 pm 
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That would surely work just fine Steve, but the fishing line trick is pretty sweet. Try it one day!
I managed to route the rosette channel WAY too wide because instead of measuring twice and cutting once, I measured none and cut one. Thus, I had to pick a new top, join it, thin it, and then route for and install the rosette. I like to install the main rosette ring, then use a tiny router bit to route the rebates for the purfling. By doing it this way, I can make a little bit of an error on the main channel and still wind up with super tight channels for the purfling lines. Here are some pics:

Image

Image

Image

This is going to be a wedge OM, so I had to "drive the bus" a bit. The back edge is now ready for linings.
Image

Thanks for looking!

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 7:57 pm 
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Lookin' good, Tony! I hope you keep documenting this build so you can teach me how to do a wedge. Not the " Rooney " type, though! wow7-eyes

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2013 7:56 am 
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Tony_in_NYC wrote:
That would surely work just fine Steve, but the fishing line trick is pretty sweet. Try it one day!...


I will keep that one in my bag of tricks for sure.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2013 9:17 am 
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SteveSmith wrote:
Tony_in_NYC wrote:
That would surely work just fine Steve, but the fishing line trick is pretty sweet. Try it one day!...


I will keep that one in my bag of tricks for sure.


I actually broke a rosette by sliding a spatula under it, so I decided to try the fishing line trick. I can not, for the life of me, remember where I got it from, but I am pretty sure I adapted it from something I learned a long time ago. Not that it matters, but I wish I could remember where the idea came from.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2013 9:37 am 
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Tony_in_NYC wrote:
SteveSmith wrote:
Tony_in_NYC wrote:
That would surely work just fine Steve, but the fishing line trick is pretty sweet. Try it one day!...


I will keep that one in my bag of tricks for sure.


I actually broke a rosette by sliding a spatula under it, so I decided to try the fishing line trick. I can not, for the life of me, remember where I got it from, but I am pretty sure I adapted it from something I learned a long time ago. Not that it matters, but I wish I could remember where the idea came from.


I've had problems trying to use a spatula with double stick too before I found out that the Naptha takes all the sticky away.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2013 10:17 am 
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That rosette looks awesome installed! Love the grainy top.

When you say "wedge" do you mean thinner on bass lower bout where the arm sits? I would love to do that on a build...I can see how you could cut the sides to any wedge you wanted, but not sure how you brace it so it "domes" to the wedge. Will be fun to watch.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2013 10:27 am 
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Beth, the entire top of a wedge guitar is at an angle. Here is a link to some info

http://www.manzer.com/guitars/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=12&Itemid=15


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2013 11:27 am 
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verhoevenc wrote:
Quite the opposite. The top is square, the back is angled. If the top was angled this would cause you to have some difficulty in your neck joint.
Chris

haha yeah from that perspective you are correct. The top is square to the sides. When holding the instrument though the top is angled being thinner towards the top and thicker toward your leg. But technically the top is square to the sides.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2013 11:31 am 
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I never read Linda Manzer's article but I will tonight.
The way I do the wedge is simple. The top is not angled, the back plate is. The top and back are braced the same as a regular guitar. The dome is established the same as a regular acoustic. The wedge is established by the rim. I add .75" to the depth of the treble side and subtract .75" from the bass side. The difference in height is connected across the neck and tail block sections of the rim. I do not profile the sides before bending. They are left at full width, which in this case was 5 inches. Then, I measure the depth I want at the center of the neck and tail blocks and mark it off. I tip the rim in my radius dish and shim it to establish the correct height difference from bass to treble sides then using a piece of wood cut to the height I want at the blocks, I transfer the radius of the dish to the rim. Cut with a saw to the line, drive the bus, and viola! Wedged rim. I neglected to take pics of the process. My bad.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2013 11:49 am 
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Well you should read it tony. In the article she thanks you for helping her develop the wedge :)
(you can pretend its you anyhow)


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2013 6:15 pm 
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What a great project. Great tips on the rosette and wedge design. Can you tell us about the screws in your mold? I am guessing you use those to help with binding.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2013 10:39 pm 
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Actually they are for gluing the top and back. I use rubber bands as clamps and loop them over the screws. I was too lazy to remove them.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 12:44 pm 
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Tony_in_NYC wrote:
I never read Linda Manzer's article but I will tonight.
The way I do the wedge is simple. The top is not angled, the back plate is. The top and back are braced the same as a regular guitar. The dome is established the same as a regular acoustic. The wedge is established by the rim. I add .75" to the depth of the treble side and subtract .75" from the bass side. The difference in height is connected across the neck and tail block sections of the rim. I do not profile the sides before bending. They are left at full width, which in this case was 5 inches. Then, I measure the depth I want at the center of the neck and tail blocks and mark it off. I tip the rim in my radius dish and shim it to establish the correct height difference from bass to treble sides then using a piece of wood cut to the height I want at the blocks, I transfer the radius of the dish to the rim. Cut with a saw to the line, drive the bus, and viola! Wedged rim. I neglected to take pics of the process. My bad.


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Great explanation, Tony! Thanks. "then using a piece of wood cut to the height I want at the blocks, I transfer the radius of the dish to the rim. "
I'm trying to see this part in my mind.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2013 1:26 am 
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Post #2 of this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=39459&p=517190#p517190

Has a better explanation than I could give! I hope that helps.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 5:46 pm 
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I started gluing the X-brace, but then the Inspector woke up and decided to check on my progress. That pretty much put an end to all the progress. But I did get one leg glued.

Image

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 5:58 pm 
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That is one sweet inspector! :D

Alex

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 6:01 pm 
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Yes. He is really good at breaking stuff with the clamps.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 8:30 pm 
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Ha, the inspector strikes again! Why is quality control always putting a stop to production :)


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 9:44 pm 
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It's all about safety Zeke. I'm not sure who is safe, but somebody is safer because of the Inspector showing up.

I glued the second leg of the X-brace. Did I mention I am using hide glue on this build? For evidence, please refer to the picture below.
Image

See?

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 10:04 am 
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Sa-weet! Love the inspector. Why isn't your hide glue in a hot pot?


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 10:15 am 
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Beth Mayer wrote:
Sa-weet! Love the inspector. Why isn't your hide glue in a hot pot?


Beth, how am I supposed to take a picture of the bottle of hide glue if I have it tucked inside of a hot pot? Obviously, I had to remove it from the pot to pose the bottle for the picture. Sheesh! It's like you don't even know how cameras work Beth! They can not take pictures THROUGH a hot pot!!

The inspector was helping me again this morning. His inspections and incessant questions about why I am doing what I am doing really slow me down. Fortunately, I am able to distract him with cookies and get on my way.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 11:09 pm 
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I have almost all of the bracing on this guitar. I hope to get the box closed up soon. Here is a shot of the back plate with it's braces. No center strip yet though. Though I would do it the hard way this time and do it last. That is not a bad center joint, it is a pencil line marking the center.
Image

Thanks for looking!

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