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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 6:56 pm 
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Koa
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I have one of these
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Speci ... _Iron.html
that doesn't heat up can I buy the guts to rebuild it?

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 7:12 pm 
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Grainger's carries replacement items. But Todd Stock came up with a hotter heating element and associated controller several years ago. I hot-rodded my iron with these components and am very happy with the result. No loss in control, but much faster heat-up. Here are the Grainger part numbers.

Cartridge Heater, 120V, 400 W, 170 W/Sq.-In Item no: 4NJJ3 $22.91

Elec Cook Control, Repl INF-120-4339 Item no: 6KXF5 $19.21

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 7:25 pm 
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way cool.....thanks

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 8:05 pm 
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Yes,...I replaced the element in mine....LMI I think. But good tip Goziert....mine 'fried' way too soon.......and the replacement element was a bit pricey.....but i bit the bullet.....Stew Mac looks kinda like the LMI...


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 11:24 am 
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Not sure if Todd did this too but I posted a tutorial on how this is done based on Howard Klepper's notes (who did it originally, I think).

Tutorial is here http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=37310

Unfortunately I put that in the Guitar Building Forum and not in Tutorials,

Lance - if you see this can you move that to the tutorial section since it seems to come up every 6 months or so.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 11:30 am 
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I PM'd Lance and asked him to move that thread so if the link I gave you doesn't work then check the tutorial section.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 7:34 pm 
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Thanks Steve, WOW pictures sure do help I am a visual learner. Waiting on the parts to come in

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 9:41 am 
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Glad to help - enjoy your new iron!

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 3:53 pm 
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It's funny how some of these things are burning up.

I left mine on high for 3 days.

It didn't burn up but the aluminum developed little bumps all over it. I guess I have to grind them down.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 4:19 pm 
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If my heating element expires I will leave out the controller completely, put in the higher wattage heater, install a thermocouple and control it with my PID controller. I also run mine at high at all times and it is often on for hours at a time as I need all the heat it can provide.

Fred

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 5:34 pm 
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Anyone know where I could get a section of that "egg profile" tubing? It looks suspiciously like the leading edge of an ultralight aircraft wing...


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 5:50 pm 
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nyazzip wrote:
Anyone know where I could get a section of that "egg profile" tubing? It looks suspiciously like the leading edge of an ultralight aircraft wing...

Depends where you live, but if near a large body of water, go looking for a yacht rigger and ask for some mast off-cuts. Comes in a vast array of sizes. Otherwise, it's a piece of thick walled aluminium tube and a big vise. I seem to recall a post where a guy used his wheel jack and his truck to flatten a piece of tube... :shock:

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 6:33 pm 
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Quote:
go looking for a yacht rigger and ask for some mast off-cuts.

ah! yes, i just knew that looked familiar...he heh.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 7:51 pm 
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International Violin also carries the stock replacement heater element for this as well, just in case you want the original. Although I am sure the Grainger one is just fine.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 8:10 pm 
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I used to run mine at high all the time too - not after I put the higher wattage element in. That's how I toasted that set of Bubinga sides. :oops:

A PID controller would work great on that.

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