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 Post subject: Paduak tricky to glue?
PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 9:12 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

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I'm working on a paduak guitar and I was wondering if it is at all difficult to glue like coco?


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 9:35 pm 
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I don't think so. The Padauk I have is much drier(less oily) than Coco or any other Rosewood.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 9:40 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I've glued a TON of Padauk, it adheres no problem.

It bleeds a LOT with wood glue, so if you're doing maple bindings, you're going to have to scrape it clean. Be as spare with the glue as you're comfortable.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 10:17 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Thanks for the tip. I'm going to bind it with it's own offcuts...
Same for the rosette. We'll see how it goes...


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 10:27 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Might consider sealing the soundboard before installing the rosette.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 11:44 pm 
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Koa
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I built an electric with African Padauk. It's best to glue up when the joint is freshly cut, planed or sanded. Titebond original works fine. It oxidizes in the sunlight and darkens somewhat to a brownish tint. Like Filippo mentioned it can stain lighter woods. A shellac seal coat on bindings can help prevent this. The dust to me was irritating to my skin and lungs so wear gloves and dust mask when planing, cutting or sanding. It has this smell too. My planer and jointer had this strong smell for a long time. Not a really bad smell but an overpowering smell like cloves or something....Mike

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 11:49 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I'm grooving on the smell.
I always shellac the rosette channels and then use CA.
How can you seal binding channels?
If you shellac them, aren't you forced into using CA for binding (shudder)...


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 12:06 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Seal THE WHOLE SOUNDBOARD.

The front of course, not the braces.

The dust WILL be horrible as well, and difficult to completely remove before finishing, and as soon as the laquer hits a SPECK of dust in the grain, it WILL bloom visibly under the laquer.

Aren't you glad you used Padouk?

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 12:11 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Maybe. Liking it so far...


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 1:50 am 
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Koa
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meddlingfool wrote:
I'm grooving on the smell.
I always shellac the rosette channels and then use CA.
How can you seal binding channels?
If you shellac them, aren't you forced into using CA for binding (shudder)...

I meant seal the actual bindings after gluing and scraping them clean with dewaxed shellac. Seal the whole top first though. Now scrape, do not sand. The fine dust will get into the lighter woods and it is almost impossible to get out. Lacquer over unsealed padauk can cause bleeding.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 5:35 am 
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Padauk..........................one of my favorite tonewoods. Easy to work and easy to glue.
Tom

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 10:56 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Tom, do you have trouble with the dust and bleed through?


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 12:40 pm 
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Koa
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I love Padauk for fretboards! Anytime it's available for fretboards it's my #1. Love the look, love the feel, love the way it works.
The dust reminds me of Tang, lol.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 1:45 pm 
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Meddlingfool: Dust gets over everything if you are not careful.One of Padauk's downfalls.Brush and vacuum to help keep guitar back and sides clean. Scrape,rather then sand when possible. I use zpoxy for fill and have not had any problem with bleed through. I don't go back to bare wood in the filling process.
Tom

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 3:09 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Thanks all...


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 3:28 am 
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I have a block of paduak I was thinking of using for a bridge. Is that a good idea or would it stain the soundboard too much?

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 4:08 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Padauk, at least the version I get here (which comes from SE Asia) reacts with anything containing iron (stainless steel and stuff) when heated, which darkens both the wood and the steel considerably. I had to cover the bending pipe with aluminum foil to avoid the problem. As for bleeding I never noticed it, but it does darken considerably over time as well.

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