Official Luthiers Forum!

I am bout to glue my binding and purfling which consists of two bands of bwb with a teflon strip between them for a shell inlay and the binding strip. I have read about using ca glue for this. how does one do this without gluing fingers to the binding? I have also noted when doing trial pieces the it isn't really an instant bond. How long does it take for the glue to take hold?
I have been think of using ca for the initial gluing where there are miters and the using titebond of the rest.Do these glues mix well?

Tape them in place and flood with CA. Remove the tape and flood any areas that were missed.

_________________
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgement.

What he said^^^

_________________
http://www.CostaGuitars.com
PMoMC

Hot hide glue.


Sent from my walkie talkie using Tapatalk

_________________
"After forty-nine years of violin building, I have decided that the search for a varnish is similar to the fox hunt. The fun is in the hunt."
Jack Batts Maker and Repairer of Fine Violins

I've been using Titebond, but like the CA idea. Do you guys use thin or medium CA? Thanks.

Martin: Do a bit of a search before jumping in the deep end. You should be using thin CA and you have to be careful because the CA can cause staining on spruce. I think most folks seal with shellac.Also be careful to get everything tight with no gap when taping. I use Titebond and rope the binding and purflings. I find I can get things tighter that way. Good luck.
Tom

_________________
A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!

Yes definitely shellac the channel and a good portion of the top and sides too. Thin CA will wick into anything so be careful around the tape or you will draw it up under it and onto the top and sides. Then you will have a lot of glue removal to do which is a PIA under the tape. IT can also run down the inside sides of the guitar too so don't get crazy with it. It's a nice quick method for getting it done though.

Everyone has their own method but this is what works for me if I use CA. Shellac as jfmckenna said, esp the channel and the top. Shellac on the top helps to keep the tape from pulling up splinters of spruce. This method works good if the binding is bent so it fits well. I tape it down using the green 3M 233 masking tape because it stretches nicely so you can put some tension on the joint. I keep 1 or 2 inches between strips of tape. I don't glue anything until the binding fits well and is nice and tight. Put thin CA in the areas between the tape (i.e. avoid gluing the tape since it is a PITA to clean), this should lock everything down nicely. I usually let it dry for 10 or 15 minutes or spray some accelerator on it if I'm in a hurry. Remove the tape and flood CA all around on both joints. Flood to me means wet the joint good, don't want CA running anywhere else.

_________________
Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

You may already know this but it hasn't been said so I'll say it. I'm not sure what you are using in the way of shell, but if you are using zipflex, there's no need for the teflon strip step. Just tape everything into place, including the zipflex, as has been stated above and flood with the CA.

Pat

_________________
There are three kinds of people:

Those that make things happen,
those that watch things happen,
and those that wondered what happened.