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There are problems with being an engineer. And one is accepting that other engineers know something you do not know. For some reason I cannot put my finger on, I never looked at those tutorials that Todd posted on YouTube, till yesterday. I went looking for a 6" Etore wiper, but could only find a 12". So I cut that in half and now have two blades. What I finally understand about Todd's technique is that you actually work the resin into the pores. Done right, you won't have a lot scraped off! I did two coats, with a light sand in between. Then, after level sanding, I did a wash coat with DNA diluted resin. I rubbed that in with a soft cloth to minimize any final sanding.

Worked like a dream. Thanks Todd.

Mike

Oh engineers............

Easy now. Loves us or hates us, you needs us.

I like old engineers who know what they are doing and understand manufacturing. Not the younger guys who don't understand how things are made.

+1 on Mike's quote and also on Todd's pore filling method.

I couldn't find the right squegee either but got some 4" blue plastic ones that work pretty well. Regardless I'm real happy with the results I've gotten.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

I guess I did not appreciate the pore filling effect of the soft squeegee. But that back came out looking like glass.

Mike

+1 on Todd's toots

"Whatever their other contributions to society, engineers could be an important source of protein." - Mark Twain (or was it Mel Brooks?) Sorry, couldn't resist.

Well, then, bite me? Lol!! (Alice Cooper?)

Todd (and others), I want to tint my curly maple sides and back with an amber shellac to lose some of the whiteness. How might this affect, positively or negatively, the 'grain-pop' of an epoxy grain fill if sealed with shellac prior? I think I would also seal epoxy with shellac after as I'm going with a Tru-oil finish.

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Doug

Don't let fear or common sense stop you from trying to build something

...motivational speakers, politicians(they don't work for a living, so they should be fairly tender).

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Mike

The only thing nescessary for evil to thrive is for good men to do nothing.

the "veal" of homo sapien

There's no need to fill any pores with maple... but if you did the above, then shellac sealer would determine the look under finish, not epoxy.

Thanks James but I'm not trying to fill pores that don't exist but rather enhance the curl in the maple. It is my understanding that epoxy does the best job on this. I stand to be corrected. First time builder.

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Doug

Don't let fear or common sense stop you from trying to build something

Staining the wood and then sanding it back so the stain is only in the curl is a better way to pop the grain. Just google "popping grain in curly maple" and you can find some videos on it.
Here is a good lesson on how to do it:
http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/ ... the-maple/

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http://www.CostaGuitars.com
PMoMC

Wow Tony, thanks for that tip! The two I'm starting now are both going to have Curly on them (binding on one and sides/back on the other) and I'm going to use that technique on all of it

My pleasure Beth. I did it on a neck once and it made a huge difference.

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http://www.CostaGuitars.com
PMoMC

Careful with those techniques. Whilst you might pop the grain there's also a danger that you'll kill it, the chatoyance that the Fiddle makers keep going on about.

That technique appears to be a good one. Funny how different terms are used but I would say that technique is about increasing the contrast in the wood's figure, not "popping the grain". At least not popping the grain in terms of matching the index of infraction of the finish to the wood.......which epoxy seems to do very well as does many oil based finishes. In other words, the finish you choose will still have an impact on the grain even after the dye technique.......for what it's worth.......

Anyone know of a technique to increase contrast in the ray figure of a spruce top?

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Formerly known as Adaboy.......

Spend more money on it haha seems the higher priced stuff has more of it. I know that dye will not work. I've dyed a spruce top and though I think it looks cool it does not increase the contrast in the silking.

Epoxy/Oil does indeed highlight the figure without losing the holographic effect. It's an easy enough test to do. Stain part of a board and use Oil/Epoxy on the other half. As you move the board you should find that the stained part has lost the vibrant, lively nature that is displayed on the other half. Unless it is done in a very subtle manner staining can also give a burnt in look to the figure. All of this is well known and well understood by the fiddle makers. Hard to tell them folk anything about finishing figured Maple. Then again they have been finishing Maple for a few centuries.

i think your dammar coated top was pretty impressive...

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member of the guild of professional dilettantes

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Mike

The only thing nescessary for evil to thrive is for good men to do nothing.

Great tutorial, but what about necks? Any tips? I'm about ready to try Zpoxy filling on a neck for the first time.

I've now filled one acoustic and two electrics with Zpoxy. I chickened out and used paste filler on the acoustic neck, mostly because I'm familiar with it, but also because I've read through the threads concerning the problem with amine blush. I'll probably sand back to the wood, which I assume will reduce the potential problem.

I'm sold on the idea of a squeegee with a handle after viewing the video. Otherwise, I had used almost identical technique, but with one of those disposable yellow squeegee things meant for layup. It's really messy.

Got it. Thanks!