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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 5:26 pm 
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Koa
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Location: Virginia, USA
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Hi, I routed my binding channel taller than I meant to. I was originally shooting for .375", but somehow routed to .450". Next size up from StewMac is .565". That's on order. But when I lay that in the channel it will be .115" proud of the top. That means that nearly 1/8" will be sticking up over the top.
I use Weld-on and binding tape to install binding, and I'm worried that when I stretch the tape over the top of the binding it will pull the bottom corner that sits in the channel away from the bottom of the channel.
Anyone dealt with this? Should I be worried/got any advice?
Thanks.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 6:04 pm 
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Can you not mark the binding and plane it down a bit? Or stack them on some kind of mini shooting board and plane/scrape? Or stack them and use spring clamps to hold them together on one side while you plane the other?

Not really my place to offer any advice lol, just thought I'd give it a go :)


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 6:08 pm 
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Koa
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Nick, thanks. That sounds like a workable solution.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 8:39 pm 
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Cocobolo
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I've cut bindings on my bandsaw. I clamped two boards either side of the blade, and had the cut .5mm more than I wanted. Ran the bindings thru, installed with the cut side up and cleaned them up. Done.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 28, 2013 4:25 pm 
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Take a piece of stock about 1" by 3" by the length of the binding. Cut a rebate the size you want your binding to be in the 3" face. Make 5 or 6 hold downs about 1" by 2 " and attach at intervals along the edge of the rebate with screws. Set up your binding in the rebate and fix with hold downs. Set your fence on table saw the width of jig and trim the bindings to size. Hope you can follow. You can do this in the time it took me to type in the post.
Tom

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These users thanked the author Tom West for the post: Mike Baker (Wed Aug 28, 2013 4:40 pm)
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 29, 2013 7:53 am 
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I like Tom's table saw method above. I had not thought of that.

Another way is to coil the binding up in tight roll and sand the side of the coil on the belt sander. Careful not to go too close to your line because it will melt just a little bit of the edge. Take this off with a scraper.

James


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 29, 2013 9:09 am 
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Hi,
I like your idea of coiling the binding and thickness sanding.
To hold a long strip of binding, you can also use the 2 cents trick of the floorboard
like so :
Image
It can be used to plane : just tape one end of the binding or clamp tight, and you can hand plane the rest.

This trick comes from the French luthier Christophe Grellier that uses it to glue lamited binding, like so :
http://www.grellier.fr/article.php?id=6&lang=en

cheers,
Christophe (not the same, Mineau)

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These users thanked the author Christophe Mineau for the post: Silas (Thu Aug 29, 2013 9:29 pm)
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 29, 2013 9:15 pm 
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Koa
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Nickinbruns,, Tom, James, Christophe, thanks. I think I will try the coil method. Sounds like a simple and effective solution.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 30, 2013 3:57 am 
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Mike: I have to apologize. I thought you were using wood binding and answered from that aspect. Never tried the jig I mentioned on plastic binding...................Matter of fact is that I've never used plastic binding. Hope I didn't lead you down the wrong path. oops_sign
Tom

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 30, 2013 6:49 am 
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Koa
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Tom West wrote:
Mike: I have to apologize. I thought you were using wood binding and answered from that aspect. Never tried the jig I mentioned on plastic binding...................Matter of fact is that I've never used plastic binding. Hope I didn't lead you down the wrong path. oops_sign
Tom

Tom. thanks. I thought about the method you described, but would not have tried it with the table saw. However, the jig you described to hold the binding might have been adapted to use with a hand plane like mentioned by Nick. I gave that some consideration.
However, I think the idea of rolling it into a coil and sanding it down using a flat sanding surface (no belt sander) as James mentioned is the perfect solution.
Thanks, guys. All of you.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 30, 2013 8:17 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I tried the coil method a few years ago using a 12" powered disk sander and got crappy results. I must have sanded one side more than the other and ended up with uneven height. Doing it by hand on sandpaper may be better.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 30, 2013 9:53 am 
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Koa
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Barry Daniels wrote:
I tried the coil method a few years ago using a 12" powered disk sander and got crappy results. I must have sanded one side more than the other and ended up with uneven height. Doing it by hand on sandpaper may be better.


Yeah, I wouldn't want to try it with a sander. With my luck it wouldn't be pretty. But I think I can do it by hand, and it doesn't have to be perfect. I just have to get it low enough that I can glue and tape it without problems. 1/32" or so proud should work. Glue, scrape and I should be good to go.

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