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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 10:28 am 
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Location: Southeast US
City: Lenoir City
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What do you expect from an engineer? [uncle]

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 10:29 am 
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First name: Gil
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City: Knoxville
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Mine are usually about .0000015 miles thick give or take .00000001 mile or so.

Oh..that would be 0.0000024140 km.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 1:18 pm 
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Furlongs? What was I thinking? It is 2,768,600 nanometers.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 1:37 pm 
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Actually, John, that would be 2,768,600,000 picometers.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 3:01 pm 
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Or 2,768,600,000,000,000,000 Zeptometers.

Sorry, couldn't help it - I've been working on documents all day and this is most fun thing that's come my way idunno

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 3:10 pm 
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Steve I thought I had the trump card with picometers! Never heard of a zeptometer. Surely that's the smallest unit of measurement, no?

Funny...I'm used to looking at scanning electron microscope images of thin sections at micrometer scale (=10-6m). Picometer is 10-12m and zeptometer 10-21m...makes a micrometer seem massive!


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 4:08 pm 
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Gil, I've never had any need to use a zepto anything, apparently a zepto is a relatively recent addition.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 4:32 pm 
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I'm pretty sure that Wife-O-Meters are the best measurement for splitting hairs.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 10:13 pm 
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What ? No rods or chains measurements ???

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 24, 2014 10:51 am 
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So it looks like most folks here run something between 0.09" and 0.110" thick.

Does anyone use a different thickness based on the top wood? Would you go thicker or thinner if it were a softer wood like Englemann Spruce or Western Red Cedar vs something stronger like Sitka or Adi?

Or would you use a different type of wood for the bridge plate based on the top wood?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 24, 2014 6:03 pm 
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JustinNorth wrote:
So it looks like most folks here run something between 0.09" and 0.110" thick.

Does anyone use a different thickness based on the top wood? Would you go thicker or thinner if it were a softer wood like Englemann Spruce or Western Red Cedar vs something stronger like Sitka or Adi?

Or would you use a different type of wood for the bridge plate based on the top wood?


My latest build a somewhat period correct 1937 Martin D-18, My John Arnold supplied tracing of 1937 Herringbone D-28 the bridge plate thickness is .95, I also have a tracing of a 1938 OO-18 and the bridge plate is .75



These users thanked the author Clinchriver for the post: ChuckH (Thu May 01, 2014 8:45 am)
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 24, 2014 6:05 pm 
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First name: Justin
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Clinch: thanks for that info. I'm building a OO as my first build.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 5:24 pm 
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First name: Justin
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City: Chattanooga
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Status: Amateur
What wood do you folks usually use for the bridge plate when building steel string guitars? I just read that Martin used maple up until 1968 and changed to a much larger rosewood one that year.

From my experience as a player, maple sides and backs are brighter than rosewood. What do you use and what do you think the effect is on the tone of the guitar?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 7:08 am 
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Spruce. But then I use ladder bracing...


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