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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 7:45 pm 
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First name: Chris
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I use blue spring steel with my bending machine and they are rusting/curroding from the moist parchment I use. Is there any way to avoid this?

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 8:49 pm 
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Maybe wrap them in aluminum foil?

Alex

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 9:37 pm 
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Use stainless. It conforms a little to the bend and will stay that way somewhat, but it's not an issue. John Hall has them.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 9:54 pm 
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stainless

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 10:09 pm 
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Yes, that is what I use. Well worth the money. They take very little set, and no corrosion,
Mike

DannyV wrote:
Use stainless. It conforms a little to the bend and will stay that way somewhat, but it's not an issue. John Hall has them.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 12:39 am 
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Wrap the moisten wood in aluminum foil.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 1:01 am 
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You could try high temperature spray paint


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 1:36 am 
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Layer of aluminum foil for sure.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 2:18 am 
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and this: corrosion. corrode. corroded.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 3:00 am 
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I usually put moist paper next to the wood then a layer of tin foil. no stains on the wood or slates.... all is good

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 4:01 am 
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It;s not complicated.
Slat, foil, damp paper, side, damp paper, foil, slat, blanket, slat.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 8:18 am 
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I wrap the slats in foil, like gift wrap, and tape it on the backside. If I'm careful I can get 4 or 5 bends before it tears and needs ro be replaced.

Kent


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 8:35 am 
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Agree, I do what Colin and Joe recommend. No problems for me.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 12:00 pm 
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I used to think the little bit of rust I had on my spring steel slats was bad until I saw the ones other people were using. If it bothers you you could wipe it off with as scotchbrite pad before using it, but with the combination of heat and water is just going to bring it back.
I also use foil between the slat and wood.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 3:14 pm 
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I've wrapped my blue tempered shim stock in foil for years. I can't remember the last time I re-wrapped it. Works fine. I personally don't like slats that take a set after bending but I know stainless works great for a lot of folks.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 4:35 pm 
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:idea: Foil duct tape :?:

Alex

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 4:56 pm 
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Alex's foil duct tape sounds like it might be a stroke of genius. I'll have to try it.

What's that rule? One years time and I can say it was my idea?

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 5:56 pm 
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Joe Beaver wrote:
Alex's foil duct tape sounds like it might be a stroke of genius. I'll have to try it.

What's that rule? One years time and I can say it was my idea?


Sounds about right, Joe! Now, if you want to send me a nice bridge blank or something, you can say I stole the idea from you yesterday! laughing6-hehe

Alex

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 7:24 pm 
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I wonder how the PSA on the foil tape would hold up under bending temps?


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 7:47 pm 
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You can get high temp foil tape that is used for fireplace flues. I think the regular stuff is good up to about 300F.

Alex

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 3:01 pm 
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Stainless steel "Shim in a Can"

Bob


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 12:51 pm 
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Bostik Top Coat works great.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 5:54 pm 
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I use 6" wide aluminum flashing, not sure of thickness. Not near the shop. Works a treat for me.
Tom

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2014 7:23 pm 
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You might want to look into Dupont Metal Prep.

http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/common/pdfs/b/product/dr/ChromaSystem/H-19298_5717S.pdf

Back when I worked in the body shop I would use this stuff on bare metal. It is a mild acid that mixes with water and you keep the metal wet for a specific period of time. Then rise it with water. It will inhibit rust and actually stop it. When it first came out we tested it by using a metal rod, coated one half with metal prep and did nothing on the other half. Hammered it in the ground and left it over winter. We also stripped an old fender and did the same thing. We watched have the fender rust while the other half did nothing. The next spring we pulled the rod out of the ground and the part that was metal prepped had no rust. I started using it on all bare metal from then on.

The only drawback is it smells like funky hot dogs... If it is the same formula I used back in the 70's then it works better than anything I have ever tired.

Maybe you don't want to mess with acid but it is just an idea I know works.

Cheers,
303


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