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Folks,

I would like to here from any of you who have finished a guitar using Tru Oil on how it holds up over time. Jay Swan used it to finish the winning guitar from last years OLF building competition and it was gorgeous. Nice smooth glossy finish, similar in appearance to finishes like nitro or poly.

The reason I'm interested in it as a finish is I've seen some tutorial type videos on how to apply it, and it seems much easier to achieve a nice finish like Jay did without having to spray.

My concern is how well it holds up. I heard from a classical builder who did a French polish on his first build. He's a classically trained musician, and played a concert with his newly built guitar, only to have the finish dissolve from the sweat of his arm after that one performance. Maybe the guy was a profuse sweater, I dunno.

Let me know what you know!


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I've got a gun stock finished with tru oil that my grandfather made in maybe the early to mid seventies(?). Been through hell, still look great. It's got some trauma, but most of the scars would have destroyed a guitar.

Thanks Twick.

I figure the stuff has to be pretty tough since it's used for gun stocks. I'm curious to know if it holds it's sheen on instruments over time, particularly with regular use.


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I can't comment on the longevity since I've only been using it on necks for a few years. In your original post you mentioned about a French polish finish that did not hold up well. A French polish shellac finish and Tru Oil are very different things. The French polish finish can be susceptible to some peoples sweat. Also in your post you mention that it was the classical builders first instrument. I do not French polish myself by I know that any builders first attempt at finishing is usually less than perfect (mine sure were). That could have been a factor with the French polish failing so quickly.

They are two very different finishes and I don't think you can compare the results your friends French polish experience to what you would expect from Tru Oil.

I'll let some other builders who are more experienced with Tru Oil body finishing address your question of longevity...from what I have seem it appears like a good option if you don't want to spray.


Josh

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Josh House

Canadian Luthier Supply
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House Guitars - Custom Built Acoustic Instruments.
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Truth be told, Tru Oil is probably not as hard as lacquer. Probably not as hard as French polish, either.

HOWEVER....

As has been stated previously, it is a gun stock finish, and few pieces of wood get exposed to as much abuse as a gun stock. Realize that the typical shotgun stock gets exposed to extremes of temperature swings, it gets rain and snow, and even the blood of game birds wiped off it. The typical shotgun stock is sometimes used to push down the top strand of a barbed wire fence while crossing into the next pasture. All this happens in outdoor temperatures ranging from 15 to 50 degrees F. Sometimes even bigger swings. Guitars are never exposed to such extremes. Furthermore, Tru Oil is easily and almost infinitely repairable. You very gently wipe it down with 0000 steel wool (or the abrasive of your choice). You meticulously clean off any remaining steel wool fibers, sanding dust, whatever (and I mean METICULOUSLY!) Then you wipe on another very thin coat or two. You are very quickly good to go again. You repeat this process as needed. For sheer durability under extreme conditions, it is remarkable. Still...it is not for everyone. It might or might NOT be for you. You will never know until you try it. Multiple, thin coats are the key to success. If this doesn't sound like something you would like to do, then you should go to a different finish. You have lots of options.

All that said, I really like it on my banjo, including the neck, which gets the most wear by far. I have not used it on a guitar, but I would not hesitate to do so.

Patrick

Thanks for the info guys.

Josh - The person in my post isn't anyone I know. I watched a video online, and the guy has gone on to make many more instruments but never went back to French polish.

I am very aware that Tru Oil and French polish are extremely different finishes. The only comparison I was drawing between the two is that you can do either one by hand. I've read quit a bit about applying French polish, but the only story I had heard was from the guy in the video who's sweat dissolved the finish.

I'm interested in Tru Oil mainly because of the beating it seems to be able to take on gun stocks.

That being said, I don't plan to subject my build to anything abnormal, but I don't feel confident brushing on lacquer or nitro and I don't have the budget to buy a sprayer. That's why hand finishes are attractive to me at the moment.


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After using it on a few guitar necks I became so fond of the stuff that I put it on the hand rail of our stairs when we renovated 4 years ago. Just three coats because we had so many other jobs that needed doing.

The stuff has held up beautifully and gets all kinds of heavy, steady use. Feels as good as a great guitar neck every morning when I make my way down for the morning coffee.

Zero concerns about longevity on a guitar.

Thanks Phil.

I think I'm going to pick some up and use it to finish another (non-instrument) woodworking project so I can get some hands-on experience with the stuff.

If you guys haven't seen Jay Swan's parlor build that won the 2013 OLF build challenge, hop over there and have a look. He finished the entire guitar with Tru Oil and it looks amazing. It lacks the "hard" glass finish of a lacquer, but it's still very glossy and beautiful. It's what got me interested in using Tru Oil for more than just neck finishing.


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I used it on a Guitar that I had for around 10 years. It's not as hard as Shellac, no question about that. It's not as hard as some Oil varnishes. The finish does dull where the arm makes contact. It's fine if you look after your instruments. It's also quick and easy to apply more finish.
It's also obvious that some peoples sweat eats through finish, Shellac and Tru Oil.

I like the feel of a truoil neck. It's too bad I can't get it anymore in California. Has anyone used the behlen tung oil finish?

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Michael F Smith
Goat Rock Ukulele
http://goatrockukulele.com

Does anyone feel that using a finish like Tru Oil (or tung oil) has a tonal benefit? I always wondered if the heavy (thick) finishes on some of the big name brands prohibit the wood from moving as freely as it might with a different finish.

I use it on my workbench because I don't want the lacquer dissolving if I accidentally spill solvents on it. It holds up pretty well.

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

Thanks Tai Fu! Do you find that you have to regularly re-apply in areas?

I probably should, but I never bothered to because it's a workbench... the tru oil is just there to make it difficult for glues to stick to it.

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

Hi Justin: When we get into suspicians of tonal benefits things can get very subjective very fast. So I won't go there.

What I wanted to add is that some shops will use True Oil after a refret of Fender style maple necks instead of many coats of nitro and the one month cure time. It's faster, holds up well, and should give you some idea how tough True Oil is if you now know that some use it on fret boards.

Also one of the original members of the OLF, Ron Wisdom used True Oil on his beautiful guitars so I wanted to suggest to you that you look-up and PM Ron (Ron Wisdom is his screen name too I believe) and ask him what you wish. Ron is a wonderful guy and be sure to say hello from Hesh if you get ahold of him.

Beware that on some oily woods, tru oil will NOT cure. I had portions of a rosewood headplate remain soft and tacky forever with tru oil.

_________________
Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

Thanks for the advice, Tai. The guitar I'm working on will be cedar and mahogany.


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Have not used Behlens but I've used Lee Valley polymerized tung oil on necks especially and it works very well. Not sure if it's
available in CA, but it should be.

Brent

True Oil goes on over shellac quite well. Use shellac to seal oily woods. Cures the drying problem.

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Waddy

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Sound Clips of most of my guitars

Thanks for the advice Waddy!

I'm a long way from applying finish, but I'm trying to work ahead a little in terms of planning. I should be getting a rosette/circle cutter by the end of the month and will be installing my rosette.

Thanks again!


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I have used it on lots of real wood speaker cabinets with great success.

Not true. Tru Oil WILL cure on oily woods. It takes a lot longer and you have to subject it to a LOT of UV. If you have a UV drying cabinet it will be done in a day or so. Tru Oil is one of the easier Oil finishes to cure.
I've yet to find an Oil finish/varnish that will not cure on Rosewood and I've now tried something around the 30 mark. That's a lot of different Oil finishes. If I can get my natural resin varnishes to dry (which do not contain driers) everything else is easy. UV, and plenty of it, is the key. That is if you want the effect that Oil directly placed on wood gives. if you aren't bothered, seal it with Shellac first.

Nitro lacquer, too.
The most durable finish I have used is automotive acrylic lacquer, which has become very hard to find these days.

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John