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Just curious.


best,
Miguel.

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member of the guild of professional dilettantes

I don't, or if I do I don't know it.
I apologize for my ignorance, but what ruler trick?

Is that where you measure before you cut? I've been thinking about incorporating that technique in my next build...if I can afford it.

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Doug

Don't let fear or common sense stop you from trying to build something

Are you talking about lining up the neck angle using a straight edge to gauge the approximate height of the bridge and saddle to make sure you have the correct angle on the neck before attaching the neck?

Hey,Doug that sounds like a good idea

sorry folks, i´m too deep in my own, er, thing - didn´t occur to me you guys could not know it.
It´s that thing where you use a thin ruler layed upon an edge on the surface of your fine waterstone and flatten only the utmost tip of the back of your plane blade on the other edge, thus creating a minute back bevel on the tip of the blade. saves lots of time and is quite popular. i believe credit is due to David Charlesworth, or at least he´s the one i got it from in the 1st place. If you search youtube for Mr. charlestorth or LN´s Deneb Puchalsky you should find more info.

Doug: you made me laugh, man. thanks for that, always worth it!

best,
Miguel.

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member of the guild of professional dilettantes

I use it with very good results Started last spring when I saw Rob Cosman use it in a few of his DVD's, and saw Deneb use it in his sharpening clips on the Lie-Nielsen YouTube channel.

Do you still put a 30 degree micro bevel (or whatever is your usual micro) on the face?

yes, i do. but i´m not an expert on anything. i´m just lazy.

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member of the guild of professional dilettantes

Yes, it works great for plane and spokeshave blades. Don't use it for chisels.

No

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Cut to size.....Beat to fit.....Paint to match.

Care to elaborat link?

I do something similar in creating a micro bevel but use the Lee Valley honing guide that enable you do cut a micro bevel without taking the blade out of the guide...very accurate.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=33001&cat=1,43072,43078&ap=1

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Doug

Don't let fear or common sense stop you from trying to build something

Yes, found it early on, and I've always used it for plane type blades. Magic.
Tried it early on for a chisel.
Took me ages to flatten the back again.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Do you also use this with block plane blades that have a chip breaker? If so, where (in relation to the tiny back bevel) do you set the edge of your chip breaker?

I really thought it was for use on bevel up blades without a chip breaker, but I could be wrong. I can't see the advantage on a bevel down blade, other than presenting a higher angle to the wood instead of having a higher angle on the frog. Chip breaker would still be close to edge.

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Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

+1 on what Doug said about the Lee Valley guide

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Gene

Politicians and diapers must be changed often, and for the same reason- Mark Twain

Yes It does save time and seem to work just fine.

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EddieLee

The Charlesworth technique is to put a small bevel on the back of a plane blade/iron. The purpose of it, as I was taught it, is to save time: the back of the plane blade/iron doesn't need to be flattened. The small, localized bevel on the back eliminates that need, while still creating a fine line at the intersection of the bevels of front and back of the iron. Without the bevel on the back, the back of the iron needs to be flattened for a sufficient length that it forms a flat plane to give the needed line-intersection between back and front of the plane iron. For those that have "fettled" plane or chisel blades to get a dead-flat back, the time savings is a few hours of initial work.

I don't use the "trick" since I flattened the back on most of my tools prior to the introduction of the technique. Consequently, using it doesn't save me anything.

I do it on my plane blades. Do do it on chisels.

Evilfrog, don't you mean Don't do it on chisels!

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Same here no problems with flat backs