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I've just completed finish sanding my latest, and have a concern about the top. It is italian spruce and the fibers pull out extremely easily with masking tape. I had lightly masked off next to the fingerboard (not really pressing the tape in well), and suffered a number of fibers pulling out when I removed the tape. I was able to sand out the remains, but it was close. I experimented with some leftover soundboard cutoffs, and it is scary how easily tape will pull out fibers. I think when I mask for the bridge, I'll have to "de-sticky" the tape some by pressing it on my jeans before using it on the soundboard.

I'm guessing this is due to runout? Both sides of the soundboard do it, but one side is noticeably worse. Do I need to worry about the bridge staying glued on, or does glue tend to help stabilize the fibers?

BTW, when I taped the bindings on with packing tape, the top had shellac on it, and I had zero problems removing the tape,

thanks, Mike

I look at the problem of tape pulling fibers off a top as a pretty normal but avoidable issue. If I put tape down on a top I will warm it with a heat gun before I pull it up. Also when I can I leave a wash coat of shellac on the top, I have had tops that it was easy for tape to pull fibers, put the I have never had any issue gluing down the bridge on those tops.

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http://www.Harvestmoonguitars.com

Tape choice is also a factor. Frog makes a tape for delicate surfaces that works well for masking the bridge and fretboard extension area prior to finishing.

Always apply a coat of shellac or lacquer on the top prior to applying any tape.

Yes, Shellac the Top. It saves it from getting grubby as well. If you can read the soundboard runout there's a correct direction in which to pull the tape.

Warm with hair dryer -- gently peel off - done -- has always worked for me.

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Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/

The glue should stabilize it. If you're worried, you could use a slightly larger bridge footprint than usual.

Your idea of de-stickying the tape before applying is a good one. Also the various mentions of heating before peeling it off. You can also wick a drop of alcohol under the tape as you peel it to release the adhesive, but that wouldn't be a good idea if the finish is alcohol soluble shellac.

Or you can just finish the whole top without masking the bridge, and then score around the bridge and chisel/scrape or route through the finish.

When you pull off the tape, pull it across the grain. If you are sure of the runout direction, you can pull it in the 'non grabbing' grain direction. But cross-grain works best for me.

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John

In addition to a shellac washcoat (I keep a can of Zinnser spray for this) when pulling the tape, pull perpindicular to the grain, and keep a very LOW angle. I pull the tape back over itself, rather than up an away from the surface, and it seems to work well.

pulling tape back over itself - - slowly - - is very helpful, mentioned above. So is using low-tack tapes. 3M sells a 'blue' tape meant for delicate surfaces, and a bit of heat and patience should be good additions to the technique. Pulling straight up is a prescription for pulling away fibers. It's a good idea to remove tape as soon as it's not needed, and apply it just before it is needed, the least time stuck on the surface.

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Peter Havriluk

+1 kencierp

Bob