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When I first wondered about continuing the linings around the rim, I thought that rabbeting the block would be the easiest part. First fit the curvature of the neck block to the rims in the mould, glue the linings in place and measure the distance between the linings. That measurement is transfered to the correct position on the neck block. This will give you the height required for the rabbet.
The linings are 1/4" thick, so with a 1/4" rabbeting bit at the correct height in the router table, you can make your cut. I'll put a couple of strips of masking tape on the block where the bearing rides to sneak up to the right depth. I hope!

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

Great thread, and this is what I love about guitar luthiery--on a violin site, a suggestion for a design change gets you banned for life!

Dave[/quote]

Even without suggesting design changes, I doubt that I would have much of a shelf life on a violin forum. I think I'd be a little too silly for them! I like that there is some room for humour around these parts!

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

Haha...I assure you violinmakers have a sense of humor, just not when it comes to design! Good luck with your idea--would love to see some pictures along the way!

I've been doing it that way for nearly a decade. I'm sure others have too. Just makes me sleep better at night. If anything, it makes it look better when the box is closed.

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Ken Franklin
clumsy yet persistent
https://www.kenfranklinukulele.com

I used to 'let' the linings into the blocks about 1cm and that goes way back to Sloans classical guitar book I believe but I stopped doing it.

This thread is interesting though because I had a repair in a couple weeks ago where the guitar side broke just to the right of the heal body joint along the top edge and the binding popped out for a good 2 inch section from the heal outward. The customer continued to play the guitar for a while none the less.

Upon inspecting the guitar I can see a body joint hump on the high E-String side of the fretboard (where the damage is) while the bass side is perfect. I understand that there is a lot to consider here but my thought was that the side caved in a bit there where the binding was missing and there was a a small 1x3cm piece of wood missing.

Makes me think...

Some progress, finally! I've gotten the heel block cut to accept the linings, neck block rabbeted and installed.











Although I haven't any experience to compare, the rim assembly seems to be really stiff, with very little deflection when twisted.
I'm pretty sure that I'll use this technique in the future. I'm not on the clock building guitars, so I don't mind the extra time, but I am pretty sure that next time I can get it done much faster, and more accurately.

I really appreciate the responses to my questions, and the kind encouragement, as well. I'm glad I finally got of my duff, and got started! Thanks!

Alex







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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

How did you round over the linings?

I used a 1/4"rad. round-over bit in the router table, and just eased into the cut on my layout line, keeping the bearing on the lining, and the lining flat on the table. Took about 5 sec for each lining. Mind where your fingers are, though!

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

That should be rock solid.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

And then notched for the side struts after?

Also I notice your neck block is opposite grain direction than usual. No concerns about gluing onto end grain?

Yes, notched after, Ed.
The neck block is a 2pc lam. grain parallel to the sides. The top and back extentions are end grain, but are well fitted. I should have done the extentions with a lap joint or dovetail into the block to avoid the end grain situation. I'll make sure to do that in the future!

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

Cool, thanks. Pretty much exactly what I want to do on my next fancy pants guitar, except with Spanish cedar...

Nice work Alex! I really like it and agree that this will also stiffen the rim a great deal!

Good going!

Just noticed your side supports passing through the linings as well - really nice work Alex!

This is how I cut the rabbets in the neck block.



I set a 1/2" spiral bit at the req'd height and clamped a pine scrap to the fence. With the router on, ease the fence into the pine, and set the depth a little shy of what is needed, and transfer a centre line to the top of the pine board. Keep the neck block tight to the fence, keeping the block in contact with the centre line. Check the depth against the lining, and adjust until it sits flush in the rabbet. A regular straight bit would be ok, but a spiral leaves a cleaner cut.

Alex


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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

What Terence said. It's interesting to see how a pro woodworker, having never built a guitar, approaches building. I look forward to seeing more bud. Looks great............. other than the red side braces. What, just trying to incorporate as many species of wood as possible. ha ha

Thanks, Danny! I guess my cabinetry style is reflected in the solid linings being trapped by the end blocks and the sides. I always use face frame construction to keep the cabinet structure as rigid as possible. I always do inset doors, so the cabinet has to stay square, or the doors won't fit, and stay properly, in the opening. I figure that if I can make the rims as solid as possible, it will allow me to build lightly elsewhere, and help to guard against any mistakes that I may make, elsewhere.
I was waiting for someone to say something about the perfectly quartered padauk side braces! There are some padauk lams in the neck, so I thought to carry that through on the inside of the body. I'm using wenge bindings and accents, so I am going to add some 1/8"x3/8" wenge strips to bolster the side braces, as well.

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

Nicely done Alex! You have given me some things to think about. I have been trying new things with my laminated lining process and I think I'll start gong into the blocks. I once had a rim all done and then dropped it. The side wood was some super brittle African mahoganyish wood and it shattered in three places (each right at the edges of the block where the linings weren't). You'd think I would have started doing it then. . . Your set up to notch the block ahead of time convinced me. I too laminate my linings around the side reinforcements. I glue the linings together inside the rim then remove them for clean up before gluing them to the sides. Your roundover looks much nicer than what I do. I think I'll borrow that as well. If you don't mind. . .

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Bryan Bear PMoMC

Take care of your feet, and your feet will take care of you.

I'm glad you think it's worth a try, Bryan! This is how I glued up the linings.

Bend .083" basswood on side bending form.


Apply glue to three strips to make a 1/4" thick lining, and place them into the outside form.



Leave them clamped for 8-10hrs. and they're done, with no spring back.
.

I lined the jig parts with foil duct tape and clear packing tape, and give them a wipe with a damp cloth to clean the squeeze out.
If the guitar shape is one that you plan on using a couple of times, it might be worth making the form.
I notched for the side braces after, and if you use braces the same thickness as the lining laminations, you just need to make two cuts with a dovetail saw, and chisel out the waste until you hit the glue line.
Making jigs is a great way for me to use up some of the plywood scraps I always have! Hope this helps, Bryan.

Alex





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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

I do mine a little differently. I glue in the side reinforcement strips (also the same thickness as the laminates) then fit the first layer of lining between them (that is how I use up my scraps ). I put a bit of masking tape in the rim so that when I glue all three strips together they don't get glued to the rim. Then I take them out and clean them up. They key right back in on the reinforcements when I go to glue them in. I don't have a ton of room for extra forms and stuff so laminating them in the rim and mold works for me. Keying them into the blocks will be nice because it will provide a positive depth stop at each end (something I don't have now).

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Bryan Bear PMoMC

Take care of your feet, and your feet will take care of you.

I can see how there would be a better fit with the first layer of lining glued between the side braces, Bryan. I'm planning on making at least one more guitar this size, so for the next one, I'll do the first row as you do, and do the other two lining strips in my jig, with a dummy first strip that doesn't get glued. Thanks for the idea!

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

Does this look any better, Danny?



If you think it still looks off, I'll just skip the sound hole!

Alex


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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

That looks cool Alex.

I'm not sure you will get a better fit with my method. Your results look pretty spot on to me. It is probably less time consuming to mark saw and chisel than it is to bend and fit each strip between the reinforcement strips too. I actually don't get too hung up about how tightly they fit. I get close enough to register easily when I glue them back in and call it good. Then again, I don't use two layers of decorative woods for my reinforcements either; call me a hack. . .

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Bryan Bear PMoMC

Take care of your feet, and your feet will take care of you.