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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 4:24 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 4:01 pm
Posts: 1887
Location: UK
I like that slightly sunken pore look with the finish hugging the wood. It takes away some of the glare and adds visual interest. It's almost (not quite) like the texture that some fiddle makers aim for. It's kind of an imperfect look but at least it's imperfect all over. I think it's why some people take to old instruments or old furniture. It's a warmer look. New, flat and very glossy looks a little cold.



These users thanked the author Michael.N. for the post: jack (Wed Aug 05, 2015 6:19 pm)
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 9:01 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Sat May 22, 2010 10:32 am
Posts: 2616
First name: alan
Last Name: stassforth
City: Santa Rosa
State: ca
Zip/Postal Code: 95404
Country: usa
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
My finish from now on is sprayed shellac, from flakes.
I love spraying it,
it's a breeze to polish out,
and I stop at the end of polishing with plastic polish.
Not too shiny, like buffed,
but deep and rich.
I know it's not the most durable for sweat,
but since I make lap steels only,
it's perfect!
A


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 9:25 pm 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Mon Sep 27, 2010 6:20 pm
Posts: 51
First name: Logan
Last Name: Sarchfield
State: AB
Focus: Build
alan stassforth wrote:
My finish from now on is sprayed shellac, from flakes.
I love spraying it,
it's a breeze to polish out,
and I stop at the end of polishing with plastic polish.
Not too shiny, like buffed,
but deep and rich.
I know it's not the most durable for sweat,
but since I make lap steels only,
it's perfect!
A



Would you mind sharing your finishing schedule? What pound cut do you spray, how many coats etc?

I've done one guitar with a brushed on Varathane Pro oil gloss from Home Depot, it worked out pretty good except for the witness lines. Over the last 4 years it has shrunk and developed a nice patina.

The guitar I did after that was all shellac some sprayed some padded on. Sanded and polished out with compounds it developed a nice gloss finish without looking like it was dipped in plastic. Until I find something else that I feel confident in trying I think I will stick with an all shellac finish.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 9:34 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Sat May 22, 2010 10:32 am
Posts: 2616
First name: alan
Last Name: stassforth
City: Santa Rosa
State: ca
Zip/Postal Code: 95404
Country: usa
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Hi Logan.
I think I used a 1-1/2 lb cut.
I don't count the number of coats,
I just stop when I think there's enough finish on.
I sand with 320 grit every other coat,
then after 3 weeks sand with 600,
use white car polish,
then finish polishing with plastic polish.
A


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 3:24 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Wed Apr 08, 2009 9:34 am
Posts: 3081
Glen H wrote:
dberkowitz wrote:
Spend a couple of hours in a guitar shop and actually look at the finish. I mean really look at it. It's not nearly as good as many people think. All finishes shrink. All of them. Polyester, too. And to a degree, they all will show the swirl in the grain of the top as they shrink. I don't care who's finish you're looking at short of French Polish, you're going to see something.


SO true. I don't care who built it, they shine, shine, shine, but when you look closely, there are almost always some flaws. Especially pores where the finish has shrunk. I have seen some Taylor's that did not look good at all. And after a few years, the hard-to-find flaws are much more apparent. One brand I have seen the most consistency in is Collings, but they have such thin finish on them, there is always some pore shrinkage.

None of this bothers me in the least. When I finish, I make it look at good as I can but don't kid myself that it's ever going to be perfect.


Of course the both of you are right, along with a few others. Others may have an agenda to uphold, but we that build or built regularly and use nitro or varnish finishes know that the finishes do shrink over time. I don't think anyone addressed my original question of why use mirror glaze when the finish shrinks back enough to rid those minute scratches.

So, what have I learned from my questions?

1) Don't ask questions.
2) If you ask a question, be prepared for answers that have nothing to do with your question.
3) There are folks out there that can make a "perfect" finish (snicker).
4) Most importantly, 2 months =10-120 years.

Have fun...



These users thanked the author Haans for the post (total 3): jack (Thu Aug 06, 2015 8:03 pm) • hanstrocity (Thu Aug 06, 2015 7:45 pm) • SteveG (Thu Aug 06, 2015 7:45 pm)
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 6:28 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2008 1:06 am
Posts: 508
First name: Greg
Last Name: B
City: Los Angeles
State: California
Assuming by Mirror Glaze you are talking about Meguiar's #9 swirl remover or equivalent, I like it because it's a fast and effective method of getting rid of swirls and fine scratches. Also, it doesn't splatter as much as most liquid compounds. Do you need it? No.

IME it isn't possible to get rid of swirls until the finish has sufficiently hardened. This holds true for varnish and lacquer. Before then, the buff itself will leave swirls.

I haven't experienced the swirls going away with time. It seems more like they become obscured as the finish shrinks back into the wood.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 7:58 pm 
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Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Mon Nov 02, 2009 1:43 am
Posts: 207
Location: Fraser Valley, BC
First name: Steve
Last Name: G
Country: Canada
Status: Amateur
Haans wrote:

1) Don't ask questions.
2) If you ask a question, be prepared for answers that have nothing to do with your question.
3) There are folks out there that can make a "perfect" finish (snicker).
4) Most importantly, 2 months =10-120 years.

Have fun...


bliss hahaha. bliss
New truisms to live my life by. :lol:

cheers, SteveG


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