Official Luthiers Forum!

I'm not much of a pearl guy but I've got someone interested in pearl inlay purfling and rosette. I know a lot of you really like zipflex so I thought I'd give that a try. Seems easy. For those of you who do use it is there an up-charge for the labor or is it easy enough just like installing wood purflings and priced as such?

I've done enough pearl inlay to know it takes a significant amount of time, patience and humility, and frankly that's why I mostly try and avoid doing it, of course if I am getting paid to do it then i don't mind quite as much.

For me the major difference between installing Zipflex and wood purflings is getting the channel depth set just right. You want to set the Zipflex strips more or less flush with the guitar surface, sanding as little as possible to clean them up. Other than that, I glue them in quickly using CA glue.

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It will probably be alright.

Only the usual warning about CA & spruce. Make sure channel is well sealed. Or you can get streak stains from the wicking of CA. But you probably already knew that...

I used the paua abalone curved set in a rosette from Stew Mac. Excellent results. they are cut very accurately such that I did not even have to fit the ends of the segments to one another. The big difference between the natural cut (as the above mentioned product) and the zip flex and sheets of manufactured shell is the depth, or thickness of the natural shell gives much more of an iridescence to the shell. And you don't have to be as careful with depth of channel-you can leave it slightly proud. And yes make sure you seal the channel so that when you CA it you don't get the dreaded streaks in the top's end grain.

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"It is easier to fool a man, than it is to convince him that he has been fooled"
Mark Twain

Ok good to know, thanks. I'm looking forward to giving this a go.

I like zipflex a lot. It is very easy and quick to install.

As with any ablam product you want to get it set at the right depth. I do mine just ever so slightly below the top and flush with the binding. I like the purflings to stand proud. When everything is scraped level very little is taken off the zipflex.

Regarding cost I charge the same for solid shell, ablam or zipflex.

I do like solid shell also but it is hard to find quality product in things like red and green abalone.

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

Zip flex is a dream to use. But, if your planning to use CA fill, you have to seal the channels. I've stopped using CA when something like West System clear epoxies are available. No fear of spruce reaction on end grains to CA. Once that happens, there is nothing you can do to fix it except color tone the top to match

It is so easy to use clear epoxy in this situation. Why risk it?

Sorry to side track, here, but is anyone selling Zipflex in Canada? Loucin Guitars was, but it is no longer on his web site.

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

You know, I used to do a zip flex group buy. We were able to buy the stuff at hundred count prices while folks only received small amounts. I'd do it again, did it three times. But last time I tried, low interest. Interest level would have to approach 500-600 pieces spread amongst a bunch of buyers before I'd do it again... And this assumes Kevin would agree. Sorry, no sales to anyone not in USA. Too dang difficult with CITES etc. of course, if u have friends in US, I can ship to them, and it's your problem from there. And folks have done that.

The last few guitars I have built I used CA for the bindings. The real temptation to use it is in simplicity and how fast it is. I always shellac the channel pretty good and have yet to have a problem. OF course I'd agree that epoxy would be a safe bet but I imagine even Titebond or Fish would work too.

Joe B I guess I'm surprised to hear you say the cost for shell inlay would be the same. I've never done it before but doing solid shell seems like an awful lot of work to me isn't it?