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OK, time to make the fret board for No. 2. Thinking of a smaller neck on this one, for smaller hands (it is an Antes Parlor.) I'm thinking about 1-11/16 at the nut. According to the book I have, it says that and 2-1/8" at the 12th fret. Fair enough, that seems to be pretty standard.

I have an Alvarez MD90, so I measure it. It has a nut width of 1-11/16, supposedly standard, but when I measure the neck at the 12th fret, it is narrower than 2-1/8". More like 2.085, a good .040 difference.

So now I am confused on how to proceed. I am tempted to go with copying the Alvarez dimensions just because it will be easy to measure for string placement, pin placement, etc. due to different scale lengths.

Any thoughts or suggestions welcome!

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Phil

http://www.oleninstruments.com

"Those who tilt at windmills are only considered insane by those who can't see the dragon."

I tape freezer paper to the bench for each build (plastic side down) and, besides catching glue and such, draw out the string path full size to make sure nut, fretboard, and bridge dimensions are all correct. I also do this to be sure the bridge and bridge plate are in the correct locations - I don't depend on plans

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

Try comparing the string spacings at the saddle. Neck width at or near the 12th fret is dependent on the string spacing at the saddle and even then, you'll find variations. Copying a guitar that you like works too. Best not to measure plans, unless you draw them out yourself like what Steve does.

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

Thanks guys, think I'll stick with copying the one I have. For one thing, I'm building a short scale Parlor, 24.500", so I have no idea what the string spacing at the saddle should be. By using this guitar (it's a dred,) I should be able to measure string spacing 24.50" from the nut to get the saddle spacing, and a bit further for pin spacing. At least that's the plan. I don't measure drawings unless it is non-critical, or for reference only. But having an actual functioning guitar in front of me should answer all sorts of questions I haven't even thought of yet.

Thanks again!

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Phil

http://www.oleninstruments.com

"Those who tilt at windmills are only considered insane by those who can't see the dragon."

I always go back to the layout procedure outlined in the beginning of the Cumpiano book to help me work through these questions.

Try measuring the Alvarez 14th fret width. Chances are it's 2 1/8", and the saddle spacing matches.

Personally I much prefer 12th fret width matching the bridge spacing. 14th fret equal gives you nearly constant string-to-edge distance along the whole board. 12th fret equal gives you more string-to-edge distance as you move toward higher frets. And because the strings are easier to pull to the side around the 12th fret than at the nut, the increasing edge distance makes more sense. Lets you widen the string spacing at the nut a bit further without the side effect of frequent falling off the edge at higher frets.

When in doubt, sketch it out, always

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

Is that 12th fret width equal bridge pin spacing, or saddle spacing?

I'll take some more measurements tomorrow, and I don't mind sketching things out. Problem to me is, what do I sketch? Here is what I know: Nut Width = 1-11/16. Scale length = 24.500". Where do I go from here? How do I determine correct bridge pin spacing? What should the width be at the 12th fret? How do I know?

I went back to the Cumpiano book, the sketch procedure was easy enough to understand except for one part: he gave the dimension for spring spacing at the bridge, but didn't say where this came from. If I knew that dimension, the rest would be a piece of cake, all I'd need was distance from edge of string to edge of fret board. But not knowing that dimension opens up a whole world of interpretation that, as a first time builder, has be confused as to how to proceed.

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Phil

http://www.oleninstruments.com

"Those who tilt at windmills are only considered insane by those who can't see the dragon."

Your choice, and this does also affect the string-to-edge distance just a bit.

So saddle spacing equal to 14th fret neck width gives the least string-to-edge distance, and bridge pin spacing equal to 12th fret width gives the most. All should work, provided the fret ends are shaped well to maximize the usable width. It's a matter of personal preference.


Just pick a bridge spacing value you like. 2 1/8" to 2 1/4" is the most common range for steel strings. 1/8" wider for nylons. But if you like wider or narrower than that, go for it.

It is entirely possible to start by choosing string-to-edge distance values and calculate the neck width from that (using the chosen nut width and bridge spacing). But it's usually done via the convenient coincidence that making the neck width at the 12th or 14th fret equal to the bridge spacing results in a good string-to-edge distance.

http://www.mullinguitars.com/calculating-guitar-fret-spacing-fingerboard-dimensions-and-string-setback.html


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