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Hi Guys,
I am in need of some help and am sure someone has the answer I seek.

I am building a reproduction of an 1830 Panormo, The model I am doing is one of the top end guitars
Panormo did. It has perfling on the sides where it meets the top and back of the guitar. (see pic)

I am bending my sides on a hot iron and am not sure the best way to do the perfling. I know a lot
of you have benders with heat controllers and glue the perflings to the sides prior to bending.

I am not sure how that would work on an iron with limited temp control.

For reference, I am using a 2 1/2" section of Stainless Steel exhaust pipe with an electric charcole starter
inserted into it. It is connected to a variable speed router controller to roughly control the temp.


Since I have never done side perflings before, is there something I should know prior to trying this?

Any help would be much apreciated

Thanks Bob

I also hand bend on a hot pipe (I use a dimmer to control the temperature). When I first had to bend laminated wood purflings, I asked. Taping them together to make them wider and then bending was suggested. It worked just fine and that’s what I’ve done since when I needed that. For the single strand on the side, all that matters is what shows, so make it arbitrarily thin—you might not even have to heat it. Now, what I usually do with the laminated ones like what’s on you back above, I used fiber purflings which are plenty flexible without heat.

Also, for the purflings on the side, not the back, I cut the channel for them after I glue on the bindings. It’s much easier to push the purfling into the channel than it is to control it while trying to glue down the binding.

I also bend with an iron. I do the same thing Bob does and tape them together.

_________________
Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

Thanks for the quick reply guys,

It doesn't really show well but all the perflings on this guitar are W/B/W although it does appear in the pic as a single line (I had to reduce the size of the pic to post it here so it lost that detail).



So if I understand this correctly, you both tape multiple perf's together (unglued) bend them all at one time and then insert them when installing the bindings?

Don't you have an issue with splitting them in the process? Then only time I have done this is with purchased binding with B/W perfling already glued to it and I am sure they were fiber not wood.

FYI, I have already made all the perfling strips using Brazilian Rosewood and Maple.

Thanks again,

Cheers,
Bob

Bob, this thread may help you some.
https://luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=56711&p=741727#p741727

I glue the purfling to the binding (when still straight) and then bend on a hot pipe. I use some ancient LMI white glue I reserve for this task, but Titebond 3 apparently works too. The LMI stuff sticks well enough for it all to stay together on tight Venetian cutaways, even when high heat bending bloodwood and the likes.

_________________
Trevor Gore, Luthier. Australian hand made acoustic guitars, classical guitars; custom guitar design and build; guitar design instruction.

http://www.goreguitars.com.au

@Glen H
Thanks for the link,,, I gave up on trying to search for stuff on this forum a few years ago. (Not sure the new site here is any better but should probably try it)



That was my first thought but bending on an iron is much more "harsh" than in a temp controlled bender with support on all sides.
But then I figured I was looking at a complete failure...

I will have a go with some scraps and see. I am just starting on this guitar and still have the V Joint Headstock to do so it will give me some time
to play around.


Again, Thanks so much for the help.

Cheers
Bob

I do like Trevor does - glue the side purfling strips to the bindings strips, tape all the bindings together, then bend the whole thing on an iron. Here is a photo of me bending the bindings for (of all things) a Panormo replica.



These side purflings were glued on with hide glue, but any glue will do.

_________________
R.M. Mottola
LiutaioMottola.com

Author of the books Building the Steel String Acoustic Guitar, Practical Design of the Acoustic Guitar and Similar Instruments, and Mottola's Cyclopedic Dictionary of Lutherie Terms.

I don't check in here very often. If you need to contact me the best bet is via email through the contact page on my site.

I will defenatly do them that way, and HHG would seem to be the right choice of glue.

Cheers,
Bob

Stacking them and taping them helps keep them from twisting when you’re bending. If I were doing what I think you’re doing, I would bend the veneers separately and then glue them as I pushed them into the channel (if you put the binding on first) or onto the ledge (if you do the binding later). The veneers are a lot easier to form one layer at a time and less accurate bending can be forgiven by their thinness.

R.M. Mottola ! It just dawned on me that I quoted you in another post about Joining tops.

I just recently found your web site and have been reading through it. Great work!

Thanks again for the help you have given.



I see what you mean, I will probably try a test run to see what works, This Peruvian Walnut is a bit "splitty" so it is an added "bonus"

I misunderstood. I glue the purflings to the bindings with TB III then tape them together and bend them. And yes, sometimes one will split.

_________________
Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

With purflings and bindings, especially dark colors, breaks can be replaced with scarf joints. So, you can just keep going and not have to start over again if a piece breaks.

Also what everyone else said, TB3 for me for that task, and that task alone.