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It’s my understanding that slotting the bridge and using solid pins is a best practice.
If I’m wrong let me know.
Seems years ago someone did a nice write up about the advantages of using un slotted bridge pins.
It made sense to me at the time.
But I can’t find it, probably because I’m not searching for it correctly.
Do any of y’all know how I can find that discussion?

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I don't know where the discussion is (there are probably several of them), but the idea is that, if you slot the pin, and don't slot the bridge, that allows the ball to ride up into the hole over time and cause more damage. If you slot the bridge, but not the pin, that keeps the ball pressing against the bridge plate, not in the hole. Less opportunity for damage. It makes sense to me. I use unslotted pins. If none are handy, I turn the slot around and make it face the tail of the guitar. I always create a slot for the string in the bridge.

IIRC, I saw a video of Richard Hoover, Santa Cruz Guitars, espousing that slotted pins were better. Something about contact with the string throughout the length of the pin, wedged against the bridge. Fuller contact, thus better. The video was not on Facebook, so I think he’s probably right.

Sorry, I’m in the unslotted camp. I hate repairing worn bridgeplates. I slot the bridge and use unslotted pins. The problem with turning the slotted pin around is that the customer eventually forgets and uses the slotted pin inappropriately and eventually damages the bridgeplate. I’ve had a couple of my owners lose a pin and replace it with a slotted one. I’ve tried to educate every one, but not every one remembers.

I’m currently working up a system to make my own unslotted pins for when my current supply runs out. (I made a big order when Gurian was still making them).

The only argument that I know of for the slotted pin is that it’s quicker at the factory. I’m not about quick. I’m about quality. I slot the bridge.

I believe Gurian was bought out by Allied and that you’ll likely be able to order your pins again at some point, if you don’t feel like making your own…

Except that that A-holes at Allied have tripled the prices of purflings and trims so I would imagine they will do the same with other products. Can you tell I don't like them?lol

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You ok bro? You seem to be consistently emanating dark vibes…

It's all good Ed, I've been burned by Allied a bunch with materials purchase. Sorry about being a Debbie downer lo,

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Allied bought out Walter Lipton/Euphonon who was my main wood supplier for years. Prices skyrocketed for his stuff.

I am in the unslotted camp.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Unslotted pins here too unless you like changing out bridge plates.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

Glenn H wrote:
" Fuller contact, thus better. "

That assumes that the pin conducts sound from the string to the bridge and top. For that to happen there has to be some 'sound' (signal) in the string behind the saddle. The 'job' of the bridge and saddle is to tell the string how long it is so that it will make the correct note. If the string doesn't stop vibrating at the saddle you have a problem.

So far as I can tell, there are two ways the pin can affect the sound:
1) by changing the mass of the bridge, and
2) by vibrating in the hole because it's loose. That's noise, and maybe damping, not a transmitted signal.

I will say this about the Allied folks: Regardless of their intent or character, or anything personal about them (not getting into any of that, either way), I often have the impression that they are pricing their items for people who have a lot more money than I have. My constant reaction to their prices: C'mon, guys; not every sliver of wood in your storehouse deserves premium pricing. So, I don't spend a lot of money with them. I've spent some, when it has made sense. It has not made sense for some time. Just my own economic decisions.