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I've just used a template to rout out the headstock using a flush cutter. In some places the wood chipped off. The cutter is new so I presume sharp. I'm not that worried as it's a fun instrument for a charity auction but I was wondering if others who use this technique could share some tips on avoiding chip-out?

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We are all in the gutter but some of us are looking at guitars.

Cut close to your outline on the bandsaw so that you can take light passes with your router. Always avoid routing uphill on the grain. This means sometimes you will have to use a climb cut.

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ELEVATE || Next Level Lutherie
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The best thing you can do is cut as close to the line as you possibly can before routing, and then route slowly. especially around the corners. It always wants to chip out around the corners because there's always unsupported wood there.

....or use a pattern sander

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Dave
Milton, ON

+1
Sander here as well plus a sharp chisel to define any sharp corner the sander can't get into.

http://www.3riversarchery.com/Arrow+Bui ... oduct.html
I like $2 tools.

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"All of us contain Music & Truth, but most of us can't get it out."
- Mark Twain

That's the idea, but I'm pretty sure that's just the cylinder for $2, not the robosander. BTW I use a 2" diameter.

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Dave
Milton, ON

I haven't ordered that one myself, but on another wood working forum some folks were chatting it up as it a super cheap pattern sander. I assumed it came with the sanding cylinder and the bearing. easily could be wrong.

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"All of us contain Music & Truth, but most of us can't get it out."
- Mark Twain

+1 for template/pattern sander http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=59448&cat=1,42500

Fred

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
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Guess I'm a bit of a neanderthal - I draw the pattern on the headplate with a template, cut close to the line using a bandsaw (with the headplate clamped to an angled jig thing to hold if flat) and then finish up freehand on an oscillating sander.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

I generally pattern rout headstocks and there are a couple of tricks. The first is to minimise the amount you rout off, by cutting close with the bandsaw, BUT leave wood on where you would expect a blow-out. For example, I usually do the first cut across the top of the headstock, so I trim close with the bandsaw, only across the top, then pattern rout across the top, THEN bandsaw the sides, etc., cutting off any wood that blew out from the top cut. Work out the sequence of cuts with respect to where you would expect blow-out, using climb cuts if necessary and you should be able to do them all without leaving a risky cut unsupported. A spiral cutter also helps. Pattern sanders work too, of course, but are generally much larger diameter than a router bit and so limit the inside radius you can do.

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Trevor Gore, Luthier. Australian hand made acoustic guitars, classical guitars; custom guitar design and build; guitar design instruction.

http://www.goreguitars.com.au

Half the time, I don't even do that. I just finish it by hand with rasps, scrapers and some sanding. It really doesn't take that long. I wish I was good enough to use the spindle sander. Somehow, I always end up with little bumps and dents that I need to work out by hand.

Trevor - the sequence thing is a great idea. Thanks for sharing that!

My solution for this.

I pattern rout with a Robosander and the Lee Valley stabilizer which helps a lot. http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.a ... at=1,42500 Leaves about 1/32" proud of the pattern.
Follow that with the router table. I've had no issues with blow out with this approach. Do the same with bridges.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Scroll saw works wonders for doing headstocks.... Scroll saw with a large throat also has a number of other usual features for luthier.

Blessings,

Kevin

I use a bandsaw to rough cut followed by template routing with a Whiteside spiral flush trim, two-flute, down-cut cutter (part #RFTD2100). I have never experienced chip out.

I use a .5' cutter with a top bearing. The first cut (after cutting close to the template with a coping saw) is done with a .54' bearing, and then I make one more cut with a .5" bearing. I used to just use the .5" bearing but then found that I would get burn marks and slight tear out occasionally. Now I dont.

There's lots of options for me to choose from next time I have a go. The pattern sander seems the safest but maybe limiting on the shape of the headstock. Todd's and Trevor's advise is what I was looking for. Have to study Robbie's video a little closer.
Thanks everyone for your imput it's always interesting to see so many variations on one process. Any more?

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We are all in the gutter but some of us are looking at guitars.

I use a template cutter and a template for my headstocks. The key is to rough cut close to your final shape using the bandsaw and to have your headstock firmly clamped to your bench. If the headstock can twist or turn even the slightest, the bit can grab and tear out a chunk o' wood.

Ken

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http://www.casperguitar.com

2 words: Spiral Carbide.
-C

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Freeborn Guitars
and home of BeauGuard©

What Trevor said...

I learned the value of routing end grain first, then side grain, back when I was building "raised panel" cabinet doors and drawers. With same woods such as most oaks, I will always got blow out if I didn't follow that routine.

Tom

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I spent most of my money on women, guitars and whiskey, the rest I wasted.

It's tips like this that are one of the reasons this forum is so great, thanks.


Good tip, too, thanks.

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We are all in the gutter but some of us are looking at guitars.