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I need to use some superglue on the rosette I'm currently doing, but testing shows that it makes a stain that can't be scraped out. I think I've heard people say you should coat it in shellac first, but I've never used it and don't have a clue. So what do I buy? Is the stuff in bottles called 'french polish' the same as premixed shellac? After I've glued everything down, do I have to remove the shellac before finishing?

Incidentally, could I also use it as a pore filler under varnish?

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"I am always doing that which I cannot do, in order that I may learn how to do it."
Pablo Picasso

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Buy shellac flakes and alcohol, denatured works OK. Dump some flakes in a jar, pour in about as much alcohol as flakes and let it dissolve. Should only take a couple of hours. You may want to add a little more alcohol if it seems too thick.
You don't need to remove the shellac. You can use it as a pore filler, but it takes several coats.

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A man hears what he wants to hear, and disreguards the rest. Paul Simon

Zinsser universal sanding sealer, wax free shellac , available at Lowe's and various woodworking places...

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MK5acoustics.com

Thanks. What sort of shellac do I need? Does it have to be dewaxed?

Edit: cross typing!

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"I am always doing that which I cannot do, in order that I may learn how to do it."
Pablo Picasso

https://www.facebook.com/FenskeGuitars

btw, "denatured alcohol" is, as you probably already know , USA speak for "methylated spirits" ...

No, not a good idea... you are much better off with other pore fillers

Is shellac sanding sealer the same thing as the flakes?

The Zinsser sealcoat (not their shellac finish) is just dewaxed shellac and alcohol. I don't really know about others.

Hey Todd, when you are you talking about aerosol cans when you say spray shellac? If so, I might have to check those out-never given them a look before and could be pretty handy. Also good to know that the sealcoat contains a stabilizer-I've been buying the small cans ever since I switched over (from mixing my own) to using it for general sealing applications because I figured it would go bad before I ran through a gallon.

Be careful if you buy by the gallon and keep for extended periods. It'll eat through the bottom of the can. I have a well shellaced floor in an area of my shop.

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Waddy

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Sound Clips of most of my guitars

To Todd's point about using CA to drop fill pearl inlay in a rosette. I assume one should use medium viscosity CA for this. Any chance of it wicking under a Martin 45 style B/W plastic purfling surrounding my Ablam rosette and staining the surrounding spruce?

I'm about to start sanding/finishing so this thread is timely.

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Formerly known as Adaboy.......

For mixing your own from flakes, give yourself an extra day for it to dissolve. I never had much luck getting it in two hours, even though it is just dissolving. Best to give yourself plenty of time.

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Phil

http://www.oleninstruments.com

"Those who tilt at windmills are only considered insane by those who can't see the dragon."

If you go the route of shellac flakes and alcohol, DO buy dewaxed shellac. When dissolving the flakes, a tall olive jar (washed out, obviously) is excellent for the purpose. Shake the heck out of the bottle every fifteen or thirty minutes while your flakes are dissolving. If you don't, you might get a substantial layer of glop in the bottom that will be slow to dissolve. Label and date your mixture. After a few months, you may use it to seal jigs and fixtures, but it's best to use only fresh stuff on your instruments. When it's six months old and you have not found a use for it, discard it, wash your jar with alcohol, and mix a new batch.

Apart from this advice--most of which was learned the hard way--shellac is excellent for sealing rosette channels, binding channels, etc., before using various glues. Thinned shellac is also excellent for sealing oily woods before applying finishes.